July 2023 Sea kayak and wild camping trip

The weather forecast for the week was constantly changing with wind speeds which varied from easy paddling to not leaving the beach conditions, so we decided to head to the Sound of Sleat which would provide some shelter and maximise our paddling options.

Day 1 Mallaig to Long Beach Campsite (Inverie) Anthony Vaccaro

We made the short journey from Kinloid campsite, Arisaig, to our launch point at Mallaig Harbour where we found parking for 5 vehicles with a nearby get in.  After loading the boats we had a short but steep uneven carry down to the highwater line.

After negotiating the rocky wavey launch we eventually set out of the harbour in a light breeze.  Heading round the headland into the mouth of Loch Nevis the breeze increased, and we paddled down the south shore of Loch Nevis until we reached a narrow point to cross to the north side and then hugged the north shore to Long Beach Campsite in Inverie.

With the prospect of a long carry, we investigated another possible campsite around the headland. Unfortunately, there was no suitable landing and we paddled back to Long Beach for an even longer carry!

By now the weather had improved significantly, the sun came out and so did the midges, after dinner, we took shelter in the campsite log cabin before heading to our tents for a good night's sleep and the end of a fantastic day.

Day 2 24/07/2023 Long Beach campsite to Ruin via Sourlies Bothy by Ian Bell

With the weather for the latter part of the week still looking uncertain we decided to spend the next couple of days in Loch Nevis, which would then give us a choice of what to do later in the week.

Packing this morning was far less challenging than the previous day with most finding additional space in their boat and questioning how much they had already eaten. The paddle today was relatively easy with us following the North / East shore of the lock. The wind was light and favourable for most of the day. Our first break was just before the loch narrows at Kylesmore. Once we got through the narrows, I started to look at options for campsites should the bothy be busy, or we wanted to do a bit more paddling. As we passed the pier at Torr Cruinn and a couple of moored boats, we started to look for the bothy. It was quite difficult to see as it is in a slight dip and the roof blends into the hillside.

On arrival at Sourlies we found it occupied by a group of walkers who had stopped for their lunch. They were welcoming and happy to share with us. We then had a group discussion over our options. We stopped here for the night although we had not done much distance or had lunch and paddled a little further. Most would have been happy to stay at the bothy until it was pointed out we had landed close to high water, and it was receding quickly so we would have another long carry in the morning. We got back in the boats and paddled back to the beach close to the pier for lunch.

After lunch, we crossed the end of the loch and paddled a short distance to a point with an old ruin and some sheep pens that looked like a good option for camping. The landing here was on to a rocky beach but then only short carry. I landed and confirmed it was a suitable campsite, so we then set up for the night. Today we had paddled a more respectable distance just short of 20km. Once camp was set up some of us explored the area and then set about making tea. After tea Catriona produced a birthday cake to help celebrate my birthday. This was enjoyed by all.

Day 3 South East shore of Loch Nevis to Torr Mor, Sandaig Bay by Catriona Hare

We had rain overnight and woke up to a damp campsite. Following a blissfully short carry we were on the water for a relaxed 9:30 start. The conditions were benign as we paddled through the narrow part of the Loch to the former Tarbet church bothy. Some of the group had stayed here many years ago and had been entertained by the renowned Frank Conway. The site is now a private residence, so we paddled on to Ardintigh Bay and an unusual whale siting. A bit further up the coast, we stopped for first lunch.

Launching off the beach I heard a loud crack, but after a quick boat inspection and no obvious issues, I decided to set off. Not long after this, we had a strong headwind, and I realised I couldn’t put any pressure on my foot pegs in my boat, and as I was pretty sure I hadn’t shrunk that the crack must be more significant than my initial investigation had suggested.

In a sheltered bay, we discussed how we all felt about heading north across the loch with a strong side wind so we could continue our journey up the Sound of Sleat. Here, we decided on second lunch and in my case a more thorough investigation of my boat. Some excellent wobbling by Ian and Tony on the rocky shore provided the materials to tie my broken seat base in place and I adjusted my footpegs.

Even better by the time we had finished eating and boat repairs the wind had vanished, and we had an uneventful paddle across the loch. It was still quite early so we gave ourselves an hour to find a campsite in the sound. It soon became apparent that there were no suitable spots without houses, and we returned to the first beach we spotted. Here we camped on the sand just above the high tide line and spent a warm midge free night on the beach.

We had a phone signal here and we reviewed the ever-changing wind forecasts before deciding if it was time to head back to Mallaig or if we had a weather window to carry on to Loch Hourn.

Day 4 Wednesday Torr Mor, Sandaig Bay to Eilean a Mhuineil by Dave Brown

A beautifully, sunny morning on Sandaig Bay. I had just 1 question to ask today - do you wear a cag? All of us opted for the no-cag deal, it was that hot, what a start.

Gliding along the flat calm sea was just so good, blue skies. It's all going well when Ian asked the group about how much water we had. We decided to stop at the first good water spot. It turned out to be at a small harbour, called Airor with 3 rusting ships which I think were still being used. Ian asked the man on the side of the pier if they would give us some drinking water. 5 mins came the reply and yes by the side of the woodshed we all lined up with bottles and the yellow water came out very fast, peat flavoured. It seemed drinkable, this was our elevenses stop. 

We paddled onto Eilean Aigastan, a stony beach for our lunch break, a bit of a climb to the top for a nice rest looking over to Sky. Then it was on to our campsite with stunning scenery on the way to Eilean a Mhuineil.

The campsite was on a spit of land with stones. We put the tents and Ian’s tarp up as we were expecting rain. The wind was getting up a bit, good for stopping the midges pestering us while we placed big stones on our guy lines to keep them in the ground.

Tony was the only one who took a bath in the stream that was a long walk and a climb to get to. 

After cooking dinner, we had a nice display by an otter of how to chase your dinner and catch it. In the night the rain arrived, and the wind got up and changed direction, so we took down Ian’s tarp and added more stones onto the pegs of our tents.   

Day 5 Thursday – Return to Torr Mor, Sandaig Bay by Andy Bond

LCC Scottish Trip Day 5, Thurs 27th July

Day 5 of our navigation around Knoydart proved to be quite an eventful day, with plenty of weather to soak up and a birthday to celebrate in the evening. We left our Loch Hourn overnight campsite at Poll a 'Mhuineil around 9:30 in overcast conditions and began the paddle out of Loch Hourn. At first, the group made fast progress heading towards the Sound of Sleat, with wildlife interest en route including a porpoise sighting and an industrial-scale salmon fish farm. Gary and Andy, the two rock climbers in the group, took in the steep sea cliffs on the left bank, looking at the potential for new routes. It has to be said that access to these other than by boat could be very problematic in view of the remoteness and steep, vegetated hillsides. Meanwhile, others in the group spotted an otter by the water's edge.

By this time the weather had worsened, and we endured a spell of almost continuous rain for the next hour or so, with the view across to Skye disappearing into the mist. By around 12:00 the weather had calmed, and we'd made enough progress to warrant an elevenses break on the north coastline of Knoydart, around Slisneach. We hauled the kayaks up onto the rocky beach and enjoyed a fairly relaxed break. The next section saw us heading SW down the Sound of Sleat directly into the prevailing wind. For Andy and Christine, as less experienced paddlers, this is where the excitement began as we paddled in deteriorating conditions with some very lively waves requiring concentration and some determined paddling. The contrast with the previous day's flat, balmy conditions couldn't have been greater.

Some respite followed as we found shelter in the bay at Airor and had a brief refuelling stop and for some, the opportunity to top up water supplies, but with wind and light rain no one wanted to hang around for too long. From this point, conditions worsened to steady force 4, with Ian working to keep the group together and pass on advice and encouragement to the less experienced in the group. We had a short breather at Doune and with Ian telling us it was only another 3km, we turned south around the headland of An Fhaochag and paddled the final section into the shelter of Sandaig Bay. Breathing a collective sigh of relief, we crossed the bay and made our camp on the sandy beach south of Torr Mor.

The excitement wasn't over and in the evening, we helped Catriona celebrate her birthday. Luckily Catriona had the foresight to bring along chocolates and 10yr old malt whisky to help the celebration, perhaps not nutritionally balanced, but a great way to end the day. Catriona will probably also remember her celebrations for the stag which was spotted on the outskirts of our camp and as it built up its confidence, approached the camp, where it remained happily grazing for the rest of the evening.

Day 6 Friday – Return to Mallaig by Garry Bunting

LCC Scottish Trip Day 65, Friday 28^th July

The Friday paddle was a short, uneventful, one to finish before the forecast ‘bad weather’ arrived. We set out from the ‘Stag / Sandy’ beach on Sandaig Bay, Knoydart and paddled around into the narrows across the mouth of Loch Nevis. Then along the North facing coast and into Mallaig landing by the cars, which was much easier than launching as it was now low tide so the small beach was exposed. The whole paddle lasted about 2 hours.

After unpacking and stowing the boats and gear we repaired to the Mallaig Fishermen's Mission Cafe for a well-earned fish and chips (or just chips vegetarian option) lunch. We then drove down to stay at the Rucksack Club hut near Ballachullish for showers etc., and an end-of-trip group meal, to finish off a great ‘adventure’ in great company.

With many thanks to everyone and particularly Catriona for organizing and Ian for leading.