2025 Islay and Jura Sea Kayak Trip
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This year's trip was to be the Inner Hebrides, with backup plans to base ourselves from Leachive Caravan Park – Tayvallich in poor weather, but with good conditions, we were to trolly the kayaks onto the ferry at Kennacraig and paddle from Port Askaig on Islay. As usual, the trip was fully booked from early in the year.

With high pressure giving ideal conditions for the trip out to the islands, we booked the ferry and planned a 10-12 trip to make the best of the good weather.

Ella	Catriona	Ian
Dave	Andy	Frankie
Debbie	Keith	Christine

Day 0 Saturday 16th Getting to Port Askaig

Team “M” headed up on the Friday evening and camped next to the Crinan Canal.  There was a brilliant sunset.  We had actually gone to the campsite first, but were informed that it would be £75 (£25 for each small tent) for the night.  The couple next door to our pitch had a family tent and were charged £25 + £5 for the second adult.  I seriously think Scotland has its camping fees a little confused.

Our camp next to the Crinan Canal.

We checked out all the best cafés for the morning and ended up in Tarbet.  Here we met up with the three other cars and enjoyed a second breakfast. With all 9 of us together, we could discuss plans and look at the maps and possible routes.

After the late breakfast/lunch, we headed to the Ferry at Kennacraig, which had free parking and security cameras to watch over the car park.  We soon had the kayaks packed, ready to paddle the short way to our camp as soon as the Ferry landed on Isla.  The kayaks proved stable on the trolleys and were easy to wheel onto the car deck of the ferry, ready for its departure at 6:00 pm.

Our kayaks were wheeled onto the car deck of the ferry, ready for its departure at 6:00 pm.

During the 2-hour journey, we enjoyed an evening meal in the restaurant on board and then went out on deck to check out the coastline.   Unbelievably, we saw a Fin Whale cross behind the boat.  A few minutes later, there was a large pod of about 25 Risso’s Dolphins.  They were surfing the wake of the Ferry and jumping clear of the water.  The white scarring (naturally developed over their lifetime) on their heads and bodies was very clear as they leapt clear of each wave.

A large pod of Risso’s Dolphins were surfing the wake of the Ferry and jumping clear of the water.

As we neared the port, we scoured the coastline for a suitable campsite.  It was going to be dark in less than two hours.   Once docked, the cars all left first, and then we wheeled our kayaks about 30m to the small slipway in front of the pub.  We dropped the kayaks off the trollies and carried them to a small area of trees in the car park and secured them with a couple of cables and a lock.

We then got ourselves afloat.  With fully laden kayaks, we headed out across the Sound of Islay towards Jura.  There was no suitable campsite on the Islay side of the sound. 

With fully laden kayaks, we headed out across the Sound of Islay towards Jura

The tide floods at about 6 knots on springs, but it was a neap tide, so it was only half of this.  We soon happened across a nice pebble beach for the night and quickly had our tents up and all settled in for a good night’s sleep.

2025 Islay and Jura Sea Kayak Trip Day 1 Port Askaig to Ardbeg by Catriona

Port Askaig to Ardbeg

Day 1 of our trip started with me mentioning the need for sunscreen for peel-wally people (not quite correctly) and Ella announcing that we were on our own for medical emergencies, as she is not back at work for 6 months.

We left our camp just north of the Feolin Ferry on Jura with enough sunscreen and no medical emergencies.

High tide (a whole 70cm higher than low tide) was at 12:15, so the tide was not due to flow south, our chosen direction, till about 10:30. To make paddling easier, we eddy hopped our way down the coast of Jura, till we reached a small island, Glas Eilean, just offshore. Here we saw deer swimming and jumping through shallow water from the island to the mainland of Jura.

McArthur’s Head Lighthouse

After elevenses, on the Island (Glas Eilean), we crossed the sound of Islay to continue our paddle along the east coast of Islay. Opposite the bottom of Jura, there is a distinctive lighthouse within a white-walled enclosure.

Rounding the bottom of the Island, there are several small islands and lots of seals. By now it was getting really warm, and we took our cags off on the water, before stopping for second elevenses on a warm, stunning beach.

Ian paddles under McArthur’s Head Lighthouse

We finished the last part of today’s trip and stopped to camp at an unnamed bay on the South East coast of Islay. Here, we chose our preferred camp type, sand or grass. It was beautiful with just enough wind to keep the midges away.

Day 02 Monday 18th Eilean Imersay (Ardbeg) to the north end of Laggan Bay (Ghillie Brae – Laggan Estate) by Debbie

Packed up and on the water promptly at 9.00, no time for faffing, we are now a fully trained and slick team, urged on by the knowledge that in the next 6 Kilometres there are 4 of the best distilleries Islay (Whisky capital of the world!) has to offer. But…such an early start means none of them will be open for “sampling”, we have been outmanoeuvred by our leader yet again.  Whisky, whisky everywhere and not a tot to drink. Those of us with a passion for the water of life had to console ourselves with taking distant photos of the distilleries as we passed them by, Ardbeg just round the corner, Laphroig, Lagavulin and then Port Ellen.  Outrageous!

Whisky, whisky everywhere and not a tot to drink.

In fairness, we did land at Port Ellen briefly for first elevenses (Ella came up with some superlative to describe first elevenses of the day, but now I can’t remember it… supreme? superior?) to fill up our water bottles at the marina and use the facilities in the ferry terminal.

Then off we go again past Port Ellen lighthouse, a long day in prospect as we have to round The Oa peninsula.  The Oa has the most spectacular coastline of huge cliffs, with very few landing places for kayakers and not an option for wild weather.  However, the weather was perfect as we rounded Rubha nan Leacan at the southeastern point and turned north westerly, taking in the fantastic coastline towards the Mull of Oa.

The American Monument high up on the Mull commemorates the huge loss of life when two troop ships sank in Islay’s waters in the last year of WW1.  The area around the Mull is now an RSPB nature reserve, home to choughs and golden eagles.  Catriona and I both think we saw an eagle, but we were accused of marking our own homework. Ha.

Eventually, we came upon a small, steep storm beach through a narrow gap in the cliffs.

Heading up the coast after the Mull, it was tricky finding a second elevenses or indeed, a first lunch spot. Eventually, we came upon a small, steep storm beach through a narrow gap in the cliffs.  Entertainment was provided by Ella – anatomical nuances of the various bones/skulls/vertebrae littering the beach.

From Rubha Mor, the northern point we reached on the Oa, we set off across Laggan Bay, with views of idyllic sandy beaches (and the airport) on our right.  This was a lengthy paddle, about 7 Kilometres, but we were anxious to get across and find a camp for the night, dreaming of golden sand and midge-free cooking……

Ella sampling a local waterfall

In reality, the golden sandy beaches were left undisturbed in favour of potentially better toilet facilities (rocks) and a huge mound of rotting seaweed (ugh) to drag the boats through.  One day…

Day 03 Tuesday 19th Ghillie Brae to Kilchiaran Bay Beach by Ella

A 7.00 am start on the water meant that some alarm clocks were set as early as 5.00 am. The early start was to ensure we made it through the narrow channel of water by Portnahaven during the slack period of tidal movement.  We had made good time, so we opted for a quick elevenses on the shore, but as we snacked, the tide seemed to change before our eyes, which meant jumping quickly back in our boats and heading off through the channel.

Christine paddles through at slack water

After passing by Frenchman’s rocks, we rounded the corner and relaxed our pace when a bumblebee landed on my boat. Its wings were wet, and it looked tired. I let it rest on my boat for an hour, while it dried its wings in the sun and enjoyed some of “my emergency sweets” I shared with it. Fuelled by strawberry laces, it took flight when we got closer to shore and left to rejoin its family.

Rounding the SW corner of Islay

The early start meant an early finish at around 2.00 pm. The sun was out and we sat on the beach, sunbathing, reading books and drinking tea (all the things you often associate with a Scottish kayaking holiday).

Kilchiaran Bay Beach and campsite

Day 04 Wednesday 20th Kilchiaran Bay Beach to Nave Island by Andy B

We rose around 7 am, struck camp, carried boats to the water’s edge, packed, and were paddling by 9 am. We left Kilchiaran Bay, crossed Machir Bay and paddled steadily northwards in calm conditions, assisted by the tide.

Before long, we had rounded Coul Point and made our first elevenses break in the Saligo Bay area. As we ate our snacks, Keith took the opportunity to show us the tidal planning maps he uses to assess tidal flow rates and direction, referenced to HT and LT at Dover as the benchmark. Some minor amusement was caused as my boat decided to launch itself into the water, but luckily the homing device I’d installed brought it quickly back to shore, to the disappointment of onlookers who’d hoped for a bit more entertainment.

Before long, we had rounded Coul Point and made our first elevenses break in the Saligo Bay area

Heading north again, we had varied shoreline interest with a multitude of caves, geos and gulleys, and sighted a white-tailed sea eagle, airborne with its prey. The sea eagle is a notable feature of Islay’s wildlife, previously extinct but now returned to the island. They are seen particularly around Loch Gruinart and the Oa peninsula, where they nest, and are known to hunt barnacle geese. Hen harriers and golden eagles are also resident and make Islay a great place for eagle sightings.

We rounded An Clachan and after a further break, we were paddling NW towards Ardnave Point. We’d elected to camp on Nave Island, shown as a bird sanctuary on our maps, and situated just north of the Point. Approaching the island, we came across large colonies of seals beached on outlying skerries, intent on observing our approach. To the alarm of some of us, many of the seals launched and several came closer, surrounding us in a seemingly threatening manner. In fairness, they may just have been curious or keen to guard their territory, as they made no attempts to board kayaks.

This time camping on a raised (and level) pebbly beach.

Landing on Nave Island, we carried boats up above the high tide line, unpacked and then began the usual search for level campsites, this time camping on a raised (and level) pebbly beach. Later, we discussed route options for the remainder of the trip, bearing in mind the imminent onset of bad weather in a few days time. In short, either completing the circumnavigation of Islay and Jura, arguably the preferred option, paddling a section of Jura’s west coast or via the Sound of Islay, a stretch of its east coast. This would leave a few days for a further trip, venue to be decided depending on the weather and other factors.

Some braved the sea for a short dip, then at the allotted time the midges appeared, forcing a retreat into tents, and welcome sleep.

Day 05 Thursday 21st Nave Island to Shian Bay by Christine B

A day of crossings and decisions.

People heard deer by the tents overnight, the heavy breathing and grunting….  Thursday was another lovely start to the day.  A few seals are still watching the campsite from their vantage point of the water, just off Nave Island also known as Seal Island and Blue Duck Island to the LCC crew.

We had a 9:00am start, though one person was on the water at 8:40am, 20 minutes ahead of the last person, who was very timely.

We had our first crossing of the day to complete as soon as we got on the water, not only heading back to the mainland mass known as Islay, with our small escort of seals, but passing Ardnave point and Loch Gruinart to head further up the north coast of Islay. The coast was interesting with high cliffs, caves, arches and lots of goats.  We headed out for our usual elevenses stop, looking to stop at Port an t-Stuthain, but finding no easy landing spots, especially for 9 kayaks, we headed to Rubha Bholsa to the arch and a beautiful sandy beach.

We headed to Rubha Bholsa to the arch and a beautiful sandy beach

After the appropriate elevenses snack, we decided to start heading along the coast to the end of the north-eastern end of the Island of Islay, where the Ruvaal, Rhuvaal, or Rubh’a’ Mhàil lighthouse is situated.  A working lighthouse which was built in the 19th century (construction starting in 1857 and completed in 1859, costing £6,500 (£822,402 in current day terms)), which marks the approach to the Sound of Islay, a narrow channel which separates the islands of Islay and Jura and allows a ferry passage to Colonsay.  The lighthouse, its keeper’s cottages and boundary walls are all category B listed buildings.

While admiring the lighthouse, Keith brought up the options A, B, C and D.  Time to make a decision, though none of us could remember which option was which….  Keith did provide a couple of options. He thought, given the tides and wind, we would be able to circumnavigate Jura before the storm arrived on Monday / Tuesday, or we could head to Loch Tarbert on Jura, but would be heading back against the wind and tide. After some discussion, it was agreed to follow our circumnavigation of Islay with a circumnavigation of Jura. This meant a crossing of about 10Km or 6 miles to a point on Jura – described as the third sandy beach above the cliffs !!!  An area on the map which shows the raised beaches.  In readiness for the long crossing, jackets were removed as the sun had come out and the temperature was certainly heating up (a heady 16C was noted for the day with a mere 1 – 2 Bft of wind).  We managed to avoid the ferry to Colonsay and had an uneventful crossing, but with many large jellyfish sightings, lots of chatter of the trip to date, the trip ahead and any ad hoc conversation to pass the time.

Route Day 5

As we neared our third sandy beach above the cliffs, Keith asked if everyone had 3 days of water left, as he was unsure if there would be fresh water where we could camp.  Also, we had passed Loch Tarbert with its potential water sources.  Our priority at this point was to find a stop for second elevenses, lunch or another break for eating and replenishing our depleting source of energy.  As we found a small rocky bay to stretch our legs, there was much discussion of where exactly we were on Jura.  Andy was asked to check on his GPS !!! unheard of.  We found we were at Rubha Dubh, and only about 1 Km away from our potential campsite. We were given one last vote on carry on or return down the Straight of Islay.  We decided to carry on our quest to circumnavigate both islands.

We headed to Shian Bay, a nice sandy cove

We headed on our last leg of the day to find a camping spot for the night, which would take all 8 tents, not always an easy task. We headed to Shian Bay, a nice sandy cove. Keith also provided another option we could camp on Shian Island; however, the sandy beach won the day.

We were off the water by 4 pm, having completed about 20 miles of paddling (though slightly less in distance due to backtracking for elevenses) we even found that we had a fresh water source at the Bay, so those low on water were no more.

So, time to set up home once more and start cooking in case the wind dropped and the midges arrived – luckily for us, no midges arrived all evening…. At this point, we had a request from Catriona for a group “Happy Birthday” to her son Ian as she had forgotten his birthday   before the usual washing and cleaning of pots, pans and ourselves took place in the fresh water by the campsite.

There were many hoof prints on the sand and sightings of a small herd of deer nearby. But nothing to stop the snores from the tents from 9 tired kayakers dreaming of the day’s achievements and the worries of the following day as the Gulf of Corryvreckan neared.

Day 06 Friday 22nd Shian Bay to Kinuachdrachd Harbour by Frankie A

Route day 6 through Corryvrevkan

The paddlers were still Frankie A, Andy B, Christine B, Dave B, Ella B, Ian B, Catriona H, Debbie H and Keith S

Distance paddled 19 miles

From a 5-star to a 2-star campsite was Keith’s summation of the day to come. Would that come to pass? Day 6 plan centred on paddling through the Gulf of Corryvreckan at slack water/as the tide was favourable. This meant a journey up the west coast of Jura, passing amazing, raised beaches, arches and caves.

These features were formed by changes in relative sea level during the Quaternary Ice Age, as the land rebounded after glacial ice melted, leaving behind these ancient shorelines and terraces high above the current sea level. The largest and most visually striking are the unvegetated quartzite shingle ridges of the west coast – the route we were paddling.

The day started with more wind and sea state than we had so far this trip. There was some surf as we launched, and Keith & Ian ensured everyone got safely away at our usual 9 am start, which was actually by 8.53 am today.

As well as the stunning scenery, the goats and deer provided much delight watching them, watching us. A porpoise sighting was reported. I’m unable to verify this, but I can confirm several eagles, real ones, not the seagull eagles from earlier in the trip.

A further 4km up the coast, we had a longer stop to await slack water and safe passage through the Gulf of Corryvreckan

There were 2 elevenses along the way. A short 10-minute comfort break followed by a longer stop 8km further up the coast, where a bothy is located. The highland cattle didn’t appear overly impressed.

A further 4km up the coast, we had a longer stop to await slack water and safe passage through the Gulf of Corryvreckan. As we made our way to the long lunch/early evening meal, Ian made a sudden course change. Debbie announced she was following Ian as she’d like to see her 71st birthday on Monday. Ahead, we could just make out the white water of the whirlpool. The Corryvreckan whirlpool is the world’s third-largest whirlpool, located between Jura and Scarba. The standing waves are formed by water being squeezed through the narrow strait, encountering underwater rock formations. The whirlpool is most active on spring tides.

Rounding the corner to the beach, there was some tide to navigate and a little bit of excitement.

Rounding the corner to the beach, there was some tide to navigate

Corryvrevkan

Here we cooked a meal, anticipating a late arrival at a camping spot. 2.5 hours were spent cooking, carrying boats further up the beach as the tide was rising, eating and staying warm. Sleeping on rocks was also a popular activity. 3 walkers and a dog on the way to the bothy appeared from out of the bracken. After a brief chat, they continued on, and we went on with moving boats further up the beach with the tide. Then 5pm arrived, and we popped through the Gulf of Corryvreckan and began the search for a campsite. Caitriona was later heard to complain that this part of the trip was too tame!

As we scoured the coast for possible camp spots. We came across one of the possible options, which had a semi-permanent campsite in situ. This was quickly discounted, so we carried on to the harbour at Kinuachdrachd. We soon spotted one tent already in situ, probably a rambler or two. It was our only choice left with fading light, so we opted for a spot on or next to the small stone pier. In the end, it proved ideal, and most found a flat piece of land and enjoyed the last of what small breeze remained.

Day 07 Saturday 23rd Kinuachdrachd Harbour to the Jura Hotel by Dave Brown

Route for day 7

Finding a place to put up my tent was fun, as I was competing with people who were changing their real estate very fast. However, we all settled down to a quick night’s sleep as we had to be up & on the water by 7 am, so that meant for me a 5.00 am get up, eat something, pack up & then pack the boat.

We all made the put-in time on the water despite the midges, paddling out just a bit gets rid of the pesky little beasties {sometimes}, paddling into the flow was fantastic, so fast & really moving, thanks to Mr Steer for his tide planning really worked very well.

Our first stop was Tarbert Bay, a very small entrance to an inlet not very big, 2 stars for that too !!!!!.

Well, that was the first elevenses stop, back out to the flow and still going fast. In the distance to our left was the Skervuile lighthouse, which was established in 1865 and was automated in 1945, south east of the entrance of Lowlandmans Bay.

Next on our list of things to look for, well, you can’t miss them, are the Jura Paps at 785m These 3 hills are made of Quartzite with distinctive conical shapes resembling breasts -that’s what Wikipedia said about them!!! 

Rubha Bhride with cows, lots of them, but enough space for our 9 sea kayaks

2nd elevenses & lunch,  that was a sandy beach at Loch na mile beach, Rubha Bhride with cows, lots of them, but enough space for our 9 sea kayaks –  nice little break soaking up the sun.

We had been working hard and we wanted the tide to be right on our last leg, not far now, just across the bay to the Famous Juar hotel camp site with hot showers and yes someone else cooking the food, fantastic paddle and we were all looking forward to the evening entertainment which was live music and singing by the beach bar next the the camp site !!!!!!!!!.

The Jura Hotel lawn had visitors in the night

I was so tired I fell asleep very fast, and had a lie-in & on the water for 10.00 am

Dave.

Day 08 Sunday 24th Jura Hotel to Port Askaig and back to Lochgilphead by Ian Bell

The timing of the tide made for a sensible start on water at 10 to catch the last of the ebb tide south to the end of the island. This we did with good assistance from the tide. We then spent some time considering landing on one of the outlying islands for eleven-is. After the usual debate about the quality of the landing and midge potential, we paddle into the bay on the south corner of the island to a better sandy beach. With the wind being mainly from south / southeast, it meant a surf landing and exit from the beach.

Fire pit, barbecue, and a covered open seating area including a bar and beach tables.

This beach was directly in front of Jura house, the local manor house and obviously their private haven, judging by the facilities that were there. A fire pit, barbecue, and a covered open seating area, including a bar and beach tables. No one was around, so we had a short break while we waited for the turn of the tide, so we could take the young flood up the sound of Islay back to Port Askaig and spend some time there before catching the evening ferry back to the mainland and driving to Lochgilphead to find a campsite for the night.

Launching back into the Sound of Islay

Once back on water, we had a free ride on the tide past the rocks and a small outlying island where we had seen the deer swimming on the first day.

As we approached the port of Askaig, we used the light mark as a reference point to ensure we were not swept past the landing point and set a parabolic course across the channel to avoid any hard ferry glide at the end. As we did this, we kept an eye out for any other traffic but had no issues. As the group passed the moored Lifeboat, we turned into the fish harbour and landed on the small beach.

The fishing slipway at Port of Askaig,

Having landed, boats were first lifted clear of water as the tide was rising. Then up onto the parking area at the top of the ramp. Once all were up, Keith and a couple of us went and retrieved the trolleys from the tree they had been left chained to for over a week before. Once that was done, the boats were fastened to the trolley and were ready for the evening ferry. The group then got changed out of their paddling attire and made plans to fill the few hours until the evening sailing. For most, this involved a drink in a pub or a visit to the small shop across the road. Both of which were being staffed by the same young man who had to keep running between the venues as customers came and went. I think he was also checking people into hotels and serving fuel at the petrol station 1 door down.

The boats were fastened to the trolley and were ready for the evening ferry.

Some spent time watching the local ferry that links Islay and Jura, demonstrating how to do proper ferry glides. Others talked of walking to a Distillery but decided it was not worth it. Others chilled and watched the activity around the port.

Before long, our boarding time arrived. We were directed to board first. Once on board, seats were secured in the dining area and meals ordered and eaten. The trip back seemed quicker than the outward journey, and before long, we were leaving the ferry and loading kayaks back on the cars. It was now 8 pm. For anyone wishing to paddle the Inner Hebrides but not wanting to do a long, exposed crossing, then trolleying your kayak on and off ferries is an easy option.

Skilled fishermen cleaning their catch before being loaded onto refrigerated lorries bound for the mainland

Once loaded, we drove to try and find a campsite that would still take tents. The only one in the area that seems to do this, according to their website, was the one in Lochgilphead. As it was now past the expedition’s bedtime and with the campsite closed for the evening, we decided to wild camp on the side of the Crinnan Canal for the night. We would find camping the next day, as that would be a rest day / bad weather day. So we returned to the place “team Mercedes” had stayed on arrival, having driven up on the Friday, while others were still at work. Soon, tents were up and everyone was fast asleep.

2025 Islay and Jura Sea Kayak Trip Day 9 Tarbet and Lochgilphead

So we woke early after a sheltered night from the remains of Storm Erin. The Crinnan Canal campsite next to lock 10 was our favourite overnight stop. (There is a campervan overnight parking area there, but a nice area for tents next to the lock gate).

 Ex-Hurricane Erin’s remnants were predicted to bring rain and wind to the UK around August 25-26, 2025, with the Met Office issuing warnings for potential heavy downpours and flooding in Wales and other areas. While the hurricane itself wouldn’t hit, its weakening system was expected to cause a significant shift in weather after a period of dry, hot weather. 

We packed up and headed back to Tarbet and to our favourite cafe – Cafe Ca Dora. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and then set about discussing options for the last 4 days of our trip. It was clear that we would not get settled conditions, and any paddling would be a little “bitty”. Dave was using his road atlas to help plan options, and then someone spotted Loch Awe. This was an inland option, but would be ideal for a more sheltered option given the forecast. It did not take long for everyone to agree on the Loch and castles trip from Tuesday to Friday.

We paid the bill and then explored the harbour and the surrounding town. We found several signs advertising the NW Coast Kayak trail, but then it was time to find a campsite and to prepare for the next part of our trip.

Debbie had stayed at the campsite at Lochgilphead before, and we headed there to see our options. It proved ideal with good showers, a quality grass pitch with picnic benches and a friendly owner. We spent the rest of the day sorting gear and relaxing. We ate in the best restaurant in town, the 2-star Indian and were glad we had booked, as we took up most of the tables.