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2025 Open Canoe Trip
to Central Massif France |
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News items or reports on club activities
should be sent to website@liverpoolcanoeclub.co.uk |
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The
Trip Out
Liverpool Canoe Club open boaters were going to France
again to paddle in the sun and explore the Central Massif, a large lump of rock
that has been uplifted to the West and South of the French Alps. We had a wide choice of rivers, most were
multiday trips with excellent riverside campsites with good toilets and
showers. Although we decided on the
itinerary once we were there, we were looking at the deeper and more
spectacular gorges and multiday trips. The most likely options included the
Gorge du Tarn, the Ardèche Gorge and the Allier
Gorge.
10 boaters, in 4 cars and one
trailer, set off for the long drive south. Some decided to do the run in one go
(swapping drivers), and others decided to take longer and stop “en route”. We all
arrived at the first campsite (Camping Le Pont du Tarn), which was our launch
spot, and began setting up camp for the night / ordering the pain au
chocolate for the morning - French campsites are so much more civilised,
even if they don't always have toilet seats or toilet paper. This was a good
campsite, it had both!
The first campsite (Camping Le Pont du Tarn)
Once everyone had arrived, we shopped for food for
the next 4 days and then ordered food from the restaurant next door. This was a
chance to relax and unwind from the long journey. After the meal, the drivers
we began the shuttle. We had learnt our lesson from 2023 and opted for the
route along the river valley. The plan was to deposit three cars and the
trailer three days downriver at “Camping Huttopia” at
the Pas de Soucy river constriction, which is not paddleable.
In our best schoolboy French, we asked if we could leave our cars and trailer
here whilst we paddled the river and that we would then stay the night once we
arrived in 2 or 3 days. Luckily, they agreed!
|
Statistics on the journey out |
Wally the
Whale |
Ian finds his
ideal replacement vehicle |
The Team
2025 05 25 Day 1 Massif Central Le
Pont du Tarn to Castelbouc (22km) grade 2(3), by Sue
& Colin
If I start with
‘wow’, that’s an understatement for the scenery which unfolded before us as we
put in from our campsite at Flower Campsite Le Pont du Tarn. From our perfect camping spot close to the
river Tarn we were soon on and quickly into the limestone Gorge. The Gorge towered and surrounded us; the sun shone and the water was super clear
making rocks easy to spot and hopefully avoid.
I ‘wowed’ and marvelled at the Gorge and needed constant reminders from
the stern to keep focus and watch for rocks!
Um… there’s a reason why the rest of the team were solo paddlers!
Pont Du Tarn
It wasn’t long
before we negotiated the first of many rapids.
We’d been reliably informed that the water level was low. however, this
resulted in more exposed rocks! Colin
and I quickly learnt that communication was the key! Do I tell him the rock is to the left, or do
I tell him we need to steer to the right?
A debate we had for several days… well, in fact, for the rest of the
week. We blamed the fact that we were 2
in one boat and so heavier when we scraped the river bottom.
We were 2 in one boat and so heavier when we scraped the river bottom.
The first couple
of rapids were the start of our steep learning curve, but we came through and
were feeling pleased with ourselves. The
Tarn has some pretty sharp carves or bends, so there were lots of opportunities
to get into the faster flows and follow the line around and avoid and duck
branches. The next few rapids, however,
were more challenging; faster flowing and bigger rocks all decided to play
their own game of pinball. My hands had
been shaking from the moment we put in and continued for the rest of the
day.
The next few rapids, however, were more
challenging; faster flowing and bigger rocks all decided to play their own game
of pinball.
After a few hours
and several elevenses and lunch breaks, we’d covered 22km and to our first
canoe camp out at Castelbouc, which was lovely, and tents (and a hammock for
Keith) were soon up and dinner on the go. Our host had limited English, but
Chris’ French was excellent, and so breakfasts were ordered; the essential
baguette, croissants and pan au chocolate! The exhilaration of the day lulled
me to an early night’s sleep as I listened to the flow of water and the owls in
the distance. Perfection.
2025 05 26 Day 2, Castelbouc to La Malene (20km) grade 1-2 by Sue & Colin
Up early and
still looking forward to the day. With breakfast
collected, we headed down to the river’s bank.
Todays paddle from Memory Maps
We’d (well,
Colin) had spent weeks planning and arranging kit to enable us to pack light
and store it in our canoe and so we were a little quicker at getting ourselves
back on the following morning. We didn’t
need to ask others what they were taking; what we had was what needed to be
packed. This part of the adventure was
going to be easy from now on.
The Weir Drop at Sainte-Enimie
Back on the
water, and again I marvelled at the Gorge.
Several limestone towers caught our imagination as we envisaged faces
and animals staring down at us while we flowed along, watching small birds
darting up and across the river and listening to a most peculiar sound which I
thought was some sort of wading bird. I
scanned intensively at the undergrowth along the banks but couldn’t see
anything. I later learnt that this
squawking noise was actually from a frog!
The rapids today seemed a little calmer, or was it a case we were
adjusting and becoming more confident?
It wasn’t long before the shout of elevenses and we eddied out to a
beach for a snack (or second breakfast).
The iconic bridge of St Chely du Tarn, with
the waterfall slightly behind it
Back on the water
and more gorping at the Gorge, and trying to spot the
frog making the squawking sound. We
round a bend and ‘wow’ what a sight. The
iconic bridge of St Chely du Tarn with a waterfall slightly behind it. Time for lunch and time for a proper
explore. If you know Colin, you’ll know
he loves bridges. We’d paddled under
many but this one really was pretty. We
naturally had to inspect it from the top as well as beneath. The village itself is also very pretty and
clearly a hit with posh locals who were smartly dressed and dining in the local
restaurant. But not to be put off in our
river clothes, we set off to the weirdest shop I’ve ever seen. The cold hit me as we stepped inside, but I
was too distracted by the pretty jewellery; the coldness was explained as I
walked further towards the back of the shop.
They had channels of water running through it and then realised we were
actually in a cave! What an awesome
shop! No time to buy anything (or put
it anywhere anyway), so back out and explore the little village and its flowing
channels.
The weirdest shop I’ve ever seen.
Lunch was eaten
down by the river and we were soon back on to play under the waterfall. Nikki seemed to be undressing from her
paddling kit, and I quickly realised she was off for a swim. She and Keith appeared to have challenged
each other on who could climb the highest on the opposing rock face and jump
in. Nikki won! Frivolities over and back to the serious
stuff of negotiating rapids and scrapes along the river’s bottom. Today was definitely a much easier day, and
nerves had calmed; was this down to the amazing Gorge, the birds, the shop in a
cave or the frogs? All I can say is I’m
sure glad to be on this. Oh, and I love
camping out of the canoe.
Ian takes a shower
Frivolities over
and back to the serious stuff of negotiating rapids and scrapes along the
river’s bottom. Today was definitely a much easier day, and nerves had calmed;
was this down to the amazing Gorge, the birds, the shop in a cave or the frogs?
All I can say is I’m sure glad to be on this. Oh, and I love camping out of the
canoe.
2025 05 27 Day 3 La Malene - Pas du
Souci (10km) grade 1 by Anthony
After spending a
relaxing night at camping “Le Gabitou, a new campsite
a mile or so upstream from La Malène, we packed up
our canoes and headed off downstream to the weir. Martin got out and acted as safety, some of
the more adventurous slide down a steep rocky ramp on the river left, others
carried around. After regrouping, we
drifted off to the bridge at La Malène.
The more adventurous slid down a steep rocky
ramp on the river left
It was an
enjoyable paddle and we marvelled at the local guides who were guiding tourists
in the punts (lightweight aluminium skiffs with 
a small petrol
motor on the back). The guidebook
describes these craft as “Les Bateliers du
Malene”. For over a hundred and thirty
years these small boats have been taking tourists down the most beautiful part
of the “Gorges Du Tarn”. The boatmen
(and women) have poled their way down shallow rapids
in the area. Nowadays, they use a small
outboard to motor the deeps to get as many trips in as possible. There are crane hosts to lift the boats out
at the end and transport them back to the start. Well, if they could drift down the shallows
with 6 or 7 people on board then we should be ok.
The punts (lightweight aluminium skiffs with a
small petrol motor on the back).
We drifted down
through some fantastic scenery. After a
few kilometres, the valley narrows and both sides tower up high all around
us. The guide calls this the heart of
the gorge – “Les Detroit’s” or narrows.
We had several elevenses stops on the many white limestone beaches in
the gorge and enjoyed the sun and views in a very quiet and special place. The best was at the “Mushroom Rock”. This had a steep cliff with a rope hanging
down. Nikki and then Keith tried to
scale the overhanging wall. Neither got
very far before falling back into the warm, clear water of the Tarn.
“Les Detroit’s” or narrows. We had
several elevenses stops on the many white limestone beaches in the gorge and
enjoyed the sun and views in a very quiet and special place. The best was at
the “Mushroom Rock”
Before too long
we approached the get-out at Pas Du Souci.
There were numerous canoe company get-outs, but eventually we found the
sign which said STOP – Danger of Death.
This was the portage around the impossible syphons and massive boulder
chokes. This section has never been
successfully paddled and probably never will.
STOP – Danger of Death.
We collected the
cars and trailer and loaded up for the 1 km shuttle to the 3-star campsite at
Les Vignes (Called Huttopia)
2025 05 28 Day 4 Les Vignes - La
Cresse (20km) grade 2(3-) for the first 10km to Le Rozier then grade 1-2(2+) by
Chris
The plan was to
paddle the section from Les Vines to La Rozier, a classic section that some
consider the best on the Tarn, then follow on with the next section down to La
Cresse. The second part was apparently less interesting, but none of us had
paddled it before, so it’s always worth exploring. The instructions were to be
ready to shuttle at 8 am, and ready to paddle immediately on returning from the
shuttle.
Day 4 Les Vignes
– La Cresse
The shuttle was
straightforward – unusually, there were no switchbacks or minor roads, just
following the same road all the way, except for one T junction. We realised
that the traffic lights in the villages are speed-controlled – if you approach
at more than the speed limit, they remain red, while if you follow the rules,
they turn green shortly before you reach them. Much better than speed bumps.
The bridge at La Cresse is single lane, and the original road on the West side
has been widened so that vehicles can line up and check there’s nobody coming
the other way. We put the cars on the original road so they were not in
anyone’s way. There’s a narrow lane down to the river below the bridge, with a
turning area leading into a campsite. It looks closed for the moment, although
the gate was open and there were tempting suggestions that we could leave our
cars there, but we decided they’re safer and less trouble to the locals where
they are. Two anglers parked at the end of the lane and were making their way downstream.
A quick look showed a gravel beach and a 50m carry.
We went back to
Colin’s car (which is actually Sue’s) and returned to our campsite, with a
quick call at the shop in a village we passed through. For some reason, some of
the villages have their name signs upside down, both entering and leaving!
The shuttle
drivers quickly got on the water for about 9 am. There didn’t seem to be much
rush, although that may just have been because people were hiding in the shade
(it was 20º already and forecast to rise to 30º), so we paddled up to the Pas
de Souci and looked at the river flowing out from the boulder choke. The main
flow was only 1.5m wide, but there was a weak current from under the boulders
on river right, fed from a syphon, but safe to approach on the downstream side.
We paddled up to the Pas de Souci and looked
at the river flowing out from the boulder choke
The group came together
at about 9:30, and we paddled down to Les Vignes. While scouting for a
restaurant the previous evening, the weir appeared (from the bridge downstream)
to have two very steep-looking chutes. Some of the glissiéres
have a fierce reputation, so when Nikki led us towards the chute on river left,
it was clear that it wasn’t as steep as it looked from the bridge and several
followed. In fact, it wasn’t a glissiére but fish
steps, similar in proportion to those at Chester. Once down, we paddled along
the bottom of the weir and reached the actual glissiére,
which was much steeper. Several of the team paddled down it, some with arms in
the air, and it did, as had been said, turn out to be much easier than it
looked.
The actual glissiére,
which was much steeper. Several of the team paddled down it, some with
arms in the air, and it did, as had been said,
turn out to be much easier than it looked.
We carried on
down, paddling through typical Tarn scenery, although a little more open than
before, through grade 1 and 2 rapids to reach the grade 3- rapid of La Sabliere (which means “the sand pit” or “the sand quarry”
but can also refer to an hourglass) at 11:15. This was preceded by a stern
warning notice on the bank (aimed at the many hired SOT paddlers) insisting
that buoyancy aids and helmets are essential. The rapid has slightly bigger
boulders than others, but the flow starts off slow, and it’s not hard to pick a
line. All the routes funnel down to a chute at the end, and there were no
mishaps.
The grade 3- rapid of La Sabliere
(which means “the sand pit” or “the sand quarry” but can also refer to an
hourglass) at 11:15.
Continuing on, we
stopped for brief elevenses at 11:45 and reached Le Rozier an hour later. The
original bridge had fallen into the river many centuries ago, and there had
been an attempt to build a new pier using the tilted one as a foundation.
There’s a fairly modern bridge now. There were hopes that a cafe would be found
for lunch, despite there being none open on the 2023 trip. Chris, Colin and Sue
stayed with the boats as they were on a public beach. The cafe hunters found
some chips, but that was all, and no restaurant possibilities for the evening.
There’s a fairly modern bridge now.
The river
continued with shingle rapids, pleasant views and hot sunshine. At one point,
we saw two anglers who looked very like the ones we’d seen at La Cresse, but
they must have walked several miles upstream. The guidebook warns of ‘swimming
kids’ and we saw them – they must have just come out of school. Around 3 pm, we
stopped, nominally for elevenses but more importantly to get in the shade. This
was a long stop of over 45 minutes. Chris finished his snack in the first 10
minutes and then forgot about his day bag and would have left it on the bank if
he hadn’t been reminded.
Chris is playing on the small wave on the Tarn
On arrival at La
Cresse, the boats and gear were quickly carried to the 
land end while the
cars were brought over the bridge. The gate to the campsite had been closed, so
we were glad to be on the right side of it. A van had been parked at the top of
the lane, making it difficult to reverse down, particularly with the trailer,
and in the end it was simpler to drive down and uncouple. As soon as all our
cars were down, of course, the van moved away. As we were loading the boats,
another van appeared, on its way down the lane, resulting in rapid reshuffling
of cars and almost having an unstrapped boat fall off. The local with the van
didn’t seem too upset at having to wait, fortunately. In fact, all the locals
we met throughout the whole trip were friendly and helpful.
The Tarn Gorge at
night
Once loaded up,
we returned to camp and then drove up to La Malène
for a good meal in a quite posh restaurant, and a look at the floodlights in
the gorge on the way back.
2025 05 29 Day 5 Prades - Langeac (15km) grade 2+
by Nikki
We were up and
out early to head over to the River Allier, leaving the stunning Gorges du Tarn
behind us.
enjoyed the
scenery on the 2-hour drive, but were wary of the grey clouds overhead. Our
previous experience from two years ago was that the Allier gorge was colder and
wetter than the Allier. However, as we started to unload the cars in Prades, the sun came out, and it soon started to heat up.
We enjoyed the scenery on the 2-hour drive, but were wary of the grey clouds
overhead.
The get-on at Prades may be one of the most impressive starts to a river
anywhere. Lush green grass, a small sandy beach, a pretty bridge spanning the
river, all overshadowed by a huge basalt rock formation forming the opposite
bank of the river.
We launched and
headed under the bridge and down the first shingle rapid or two. The river soon
brings you to a sneaky little chute, whooshing you round to the left.
The river soon brings you to a sneaky little chute, whooshing you round to the
left.
After this, the
river passes the railway arching high alongside and continues on its way. A
series of easy shingle and low-grade rapids, with a few fun bouncy ones thrown
in. The river winds through greenery and basalt columns, and rock formations.
The river winds through greenery and basalt columns, and rock formations.
Early afternoon,
and the sun was getting hot, but no swims had yet taken place.
We came to the
weir. The weir has a glissiere (a chute made for
canoes/kayaks). On our previous trip, this had been a boat swamper,
but the river level was lower this time and therefore perhaps less likely to
swamp, but there was a bit of a drop-off at the end of the ramp.
There was a bit of a drop-off at the end of the ramp.
I went first,
with some kayakers at the top telling me “á gauche”… weeee,
SPLASH! I went gauche, straight over the side of my canoe. I grabbed my boat
and dragged it to the bank, and turned around to see Martin doing the exact
same thing… weee, SPLASH!
I looked at the
rest of the group and gave them a “it’s up to you” signal. After much
deliberation, everyone decided to portage, I have no idea why??
Finally cooled
down, Martin and I each went to different places to meet the rest of the group,
as we were aware of 2 portage routes and weren’t sure where they would pop out.
In the end, we all gathered just below a small “wave” that had, on a previous trip,
been an excellent surf wave.
The river continues with easy rapids and
pretty scenery to the end at Langeac.
From here, the
river continues with easy rapids and pretty scenery to the end at Langeac.
2025
05 30 Day 6 Chaperoux - Alleyras
(18km) grade 2(3) by Ruth and Mike
2025 05 30 Day 6 Chaperoux
– Alleyras (18km) grade 2(3) by Ruth and Mike
A Special Day on a Special River
Last
time we visited the area, this section of river had been the best run of the
trip. Indeed, the guidebook refers to this run as the “The Jewel in the Crown”
for open boating in the Massif Central. With 18 km from put in to get out, the
river promised nearly 40 rapids from G2 to G3 – we were excited!
Reaching
the put-in, the sun was blazing hot and the river slightly lower than last
time, but we were still eager to get on. Helmets on, let’s go!
The sun was
blazing hot, and the river was slightly lower than last time, but we were still
eager to get on. Helmets on, let’s go!
Rounding
the first bend, the first G3 zooms into view. The team were up for it, paddling
well, and we all aced it! We were really impressed with Sue and Collin’s
paddling; this was far harder and more continuous than anything they had
paddled before. Equally, for Anthony, it wasn’t the longer / bigger boat that
was making it look easy, it was your skilful paddling.
The
rapids passed under our boats, the cliffs became higher, eagles soared
overhead, all whilst the accompanying railway line took more and more tunnels
and viaducts – we were really into the Gorges de l’Allier.
Standing waves, technical rapids – we flew through them all. And then it was
time for 11’s.
Relax.
A group of sit-on-tops passed us with their moniteur
whilst we relaxed in the sun, enjoying the rather runny Camembert on a fresh
baguette.
The sit-on-tops,
who had decided to get out for some rock jumping
Back
on the river, we soon caught up with the sit-on-tops, who had decided to get
out for some rock jumping. Nice! But we knew we were approaching one of the
crux rapids of the trip. Mike had done some great rock spins last time, whilst
Chris was aware of previous trips that had seen open boats wrapped around the
rock that Mike had spun on. The tension built, and we switched more into river
running mode.
Martin
set up position at the top of the rapid, Nikki ran to give on water safety
below the rapid, whilst Keith ran the rapid and immediately got onto the bank
with the important throw rope……… sorry, camera!
With the lower
water, it was a fun rapid
With
the lower water, it was a fun rapid. It was so easy for Sue and Colin that they
decided to take a more technical line down the river left.
The
tandem sit-on-tops followed soon after. Their moniteur
got out to give instructions and provide safety, so we stayed to help. One boat
swim, two boat swim, three boat…….
We
left them to it and paddled down more lumpy water until we reached “Roman
Bridge”. This really is a strange one; there are the beginnings of the arch on
river right, but no sign of where it lands on river left, and no obvious reason
for the bridge to be there. But it was a lovely location and had a nice spot
for lunch.
It
was here that we discovered something amazing, it was Chris’ birthday, his 70th to
be exact!!! Wow, what a special place to host a special day! (I hope I’m still
paddling when I get to 70!)
A
quick swim for some, and then it was back on. Alas, all too soon, as Martin
reported that his boat was doing an impression of the Titanic, it was leaking
under the water line, and he was going down fast. Luckily, Martin comes very
well prepared, and he soon had the airbags out and was in his element repairing
the rather large split in his canoe (Note, this was not due to pilot error, nor
to a gust of wind lifting his boat and sending it down a G5, but rather a
previous attempt to add a bang plate had breached the structural integrity of
the canoe). Whilst Martin laboured on his boat, the rest of the group gave
moral support by going for a swim, playing in the flowing water.
Martin reported that his boat was doing an impression of the Titanic
Hitting
the water again, we paddled through more superb rapids until the get-out. All
agreed, a true Jewel in open boats.
Following
the great paddle, we retired for an evening meal at the rafting centre in the
campsite. Superb food, great music, lovely company and a free drink for Chris
when the waiter discovered that it was his birthday. Top job!
How
long until next time?
Ruth
and Mike
2025
05 31 Day 7 Prades - Chanteuges
(9km) grade 2+ by Ian
The
get-on at Prades is one of the most spectacular
you’ll find anywhere – a lush grassy launch spot, a sandy beach, a charming
arched bridge, and towering basalt cliffs dominating the far bank. It’s a place
that makes you pause and soak in the beauty before even dipping a paddle in the
water.
The get-on at Prades is one of the most spectacular
you’ll find anywhere
We
launched beneath the bridge and were soon into the action. The first stretch
featured a couple of gentle shingle rapids – ideal for warming up and finding
your rhythm.
Ian’s Rapid Guide
- Shingle
Set-Up (Rapid 1): An easy flow down the left with a
small wave train and gravelly shallows to steer through – ideal for
checking trim and line choice.
- Sneaky Chute
(Rapid 2): A narrow left-hand shoot that
surprises with a sharp turn and a pushy tongue of water – quick reactions
rewarded with a clean ride!
A narrow left-hand shoot that surprises with a sharp turn and a pushy tongue of
water
- Railway Run
(Rapid 3): Just past the towering railway
bridge, this rapid offers a slightly more technical descent with a series
of small steps and deeper central flow. Watch for eddy lines near the
basalt outcrops.
- Green Tunnel
(Rapid 4): A fun, bouncy wave train winding
through overhanging trees and lush riverbank. Paddle straight, smile wide.
From
there, the river continued its meandering course, cutting through stunning
scenery – greenery draping the banks, basalt columns standing like giant
bookshelves, and rock formations around every corner.
Giant bookshelves, and rock formations around every corner.
The
rapids were all manageable yet lively enough to keep everyone entertained. With
calm pools between, there was time to take in the view and regroup before the
next drop.
A
scenic and thoroughly enjoyable 9km stretch shared by a strong crew:
Ruth, Mike, Nikki, Keith, Sue, Colin, Anthony, and Chris.
The
Trip Home
We
loaded up the trailer and headed for the nearest Café for a final lunch
together. We then all headed back north
to the booked train or boat crossing.
Some stayed in hotels overnight while others headed for a last campsite
before late morning crossings. It is
usual to get large thunderstorms around Reims in summer, and we were treated to
large flashes in the distance.
All
in all a fabulous trip and well recommended to anyone who would like to explore
deep gorges in warm, clear but relatively easy water.