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2025 The Small Isles
Sea Kayak Trip |
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2025
The Small Isles Sea Kayaking Trip Day 1 by Ella
7 adventurers visit the Small Isles (well,
half of them)
All
the weather forecasts we checked were consistent and showed low wind (less than
10mph) for the next 6 days for plan A, a trip to the Small Isles. We were
confident we had a weather window for this trip, which involves several open
crossings and has the potential to be exposed to Atlantic swell.
Day 1 Tigh-na-mara
to Camas Sgiotaig, Eigg (Singing Sands) Ella
With
spirits high and day one of our expedition promising favourable weather, we
began our first crossing of the trip, from our campsite in Arasaig
to the east coast of Eigg. The sea was calm and
visibility was good, which meant that there were plenty of opportunities to
look out for wildlife. Many dolphins and porpoises were spotted, along with a
brief glimpse of a very large aquatic mammal (controversy reigned all week
about the identity of this animal, with the group split between a small whale
and the biggest dolphin they’ve ever seen).
It
took us about 3 hours to complete the 10-mile crossing, and after a quick lunch
break, we continued up the east coast of the island before landing on a
beautiful sandy beach for the night. Tents were pitched on the sand, the sun
was shining, and several braver members of the group took the opportunity to
cool off in the sea. Before long, a waterfall was discovered, running directly
onto the beach and giving us a source of fresh water to fill up are bottles.’
2025 The Small Isles Sea Kayaking Trip Day 2
Day 2 Camas Sgiotaig
(Singing Sands) to Guirdil Bothy 18 miles
We
woke up to a beautiful, warm day, and we all decided to abandon cags and paddle
in T-shirts. We headed over to the south side of Rum;
no exciting wildlife today during the crossing, but stunning reflections of the
mountains in the glassy water.
Camas Sgiotaig Eigg
to Guirdal bothy Rum (27)
We
rounded the southern end of Rum and paddled up the west coast, eventually
landing near Harris, close to the mausoleum of the Bullough family. A mad
Lancastrian who inherited Rum from his father built a castle on the Island
around the 1900s, he did some more stuff before being buried in the family
Mausoleum. I wasn’t expecting a Doric temple on Rum.
The
weather deteriorated a bit after lunch, and the blue sky and glassy calm of the
morning were replaced with increasingly grey skies as we finally headed through
an arch to Guirdlil Bay. We were met with a steep
rocky shore, and enough waves to make the landing difficult, so we took to
turns to land safely.
Camas Sgiotaig Eigg
to Guirdal bothy Rum (6)
2025 The Small Isles Sea Kayaking Trip Day 3
Day 3 Guirdil Bothy
to Kinloch (The weather forecasts have changed, all of them) north westerly
16mph gusting 25 by Andy
The
day began on a high as we gathered inside Guirdil
bothy and passively inhaled the smoke from the ‘herbal cigarettes’ being smoked
by an in situ bothy resident, enjoying a peaceful
rural retreat. Uncertainty hung in the air. Changing forecasts meant that last
night’s decision to continue our clockwise journey around Rum had to be
reviewed, and a glance at the turbulent grey sea outside reinforced this.
Eventually, Ian decided that now was as good a time as any to press on, even
though it meant paddling loaded boats in a very lively sea.
Guirdil bothy to Kinloch
(4a)
Kayaks
had to be transferred to an alternative departure spot at the east end of the
beach, involving more lifting across a shifting pebbly surface. In its favour,
though, this was a much superior spot for packing and the ensuing launch into
bouncy water. Heading NE towards Kilmory, we had a lively following sea,
but plenty of shoreline interest with dramatic deep cut gulleys, steep cliffs
and intermittent deep, caverenous caves. Shortly, we
passed a huge wreck which emitted an eerie, ghostly groaning sound, caused by
debris being flung around violently inside by the wind and waves. In calmer
conditions, we would have paused for a closer inspection and photos, but this
wasn’t a place to linger.
Kilmory
Bay and its extensive sandy beaches soon came into view. We investigated
landing options, discounting those with too much breaking surf and opted for a
safer landing at the west end of the beach for a short rest stop. Looking back
at this last section, conditions had probably been top-end moderate with an
added commitment factor, as get-outs were few and far between and landings
potentially problematic in the heavy sea.
Guirdil bothy to Kinloch
(3)
After
the break, we rounded the headlands at Rhuba Shamhnan Insir, the nothermost point of Rum then, heading SE, Rhuba na Moine and Rhuba Camas Pliasgaig. Each of
these gave challenging paddling, but gradually conditions eased as we moved SE,
now sheltered from the prevailing weather. It was time for a second break, but
most of the available landings were onto pebbly beaches with large,
unwelcoming, seaweed-strewn pebbles. One of these did have a small section of
sand, enough to nose our kayaks onto for a short respite, snacks and
drinks.
What
followed was a fairly relaxing paddle SE up to the
headland of Rhuba na Roinne. We could now enjoy the wildlife: herons abounded,
seabirds darted hither and thither, but the highlight was watching a scavenging
sea eagle take flight only a short distance away. After the headland, we
entered Loch Scresort and set our sights on Kinloch,
partially obscured by the mist.
Ian
had described Kinloch as a ‘conurbation’, but this turned out to be highly
misleading. Kinloch does not offer the expectant visitor bars, cafes,
restaurants and bright lights, but instead more modest comforts: a seafront
campsite, heavy drizzle and rapacious midges. All of this for just £17 per
person per night, but bear in mind midges are not
available everywhere in Scotland, just selected locations. On the other hand,
it would be remiss not to mention the very welcome warm showers, village shop
offering treats and (importantly) off sales, and a useful hut which gave
shelter for cooking and dining.
Kinloch Rum to Na Gurrabail,
Gamisdale Eigg (1)
It
had been a fantastic day. Ian had led us quietly but safely through some very
challenging conditions in a remote wild environment; we could relax and look
forward to more of the same the next day, perhaps with a bit less bounce!
2025 The Small Isles Sea Kayaking Trip Day 4
Kinloch (Rum) to Na Gurrabail, Galmisdale
(Eigg) – 28 km / 18.5 miles
Paddlers: Catriona, Ian, Ella, Adya, Alan, Emma, and Andy
The Isle of Rum is the correct
name. While “Rhum” was historically used, it was a deliberate alteration
by a former owner, Sir George Bullough, to avoid the association with
the alcoholic beverage. The island’s name is derived from the Gaelic word
“Rùm”, and it was officially restored to “Rum” in 1991.
Day
four began with the kind of Scottish summer morning that makes a compass your
best friend—thick fog rolling in over Rum, hiding everything beyond a few
paddle strokes. Our crossing to Eigg was a steady, compass-led affair, the
world reduced to the hiss of water on hulls and the occasional glimpse of each
other through the mist.
The kind of Scottish summer morning that makes
a compass your best friend—thick fog rolling in over Rum
By
the time Cleadale came into view for lunch, the swell
had picked up, making for a bouncy, salt-sprayed approach. After a well-earned
break on the beach, we enjoyed an “exciting” (read: bracing) launch into lively
water before heading south along Eigg’s rugged west coast.
Kinloch Rum to Na Gurrabail,
Gamisdale Eigg (8)
Our
day ended in style at a wild campsite at Na Gurrabail,
Galmisdale—spacious, scenic, complete with a
composting toilet, and already hosting a friendly group of fellow kayakers.
There was still plenty of room for our tents, and the welcome from locals
matched the setting. The evening was rounded off perfectly with pints at the
pub, featuring beer from the island’s own brewery.
Galmisdale
campsite—spacious, scenic, complete with a composting toilet
Galmisdale proved a warm
and generous host to passing paddlers… a sharp contrast to our reception at
Arisaig the following day.
2025 The Small Isles Sea Kayaking Trip Day 5
Day 5 Na Gurrabail Galmisdale to Tigh Na Mara, campsite 16 miles Emma
We
dropped our dry tents on the brow of the campsite at Eigg, ate breakfast on the
beach, and prepped our kayaks for our final journey across from Eigg to the
mainland. Very grateful to “Shazzers Shit shak” (compost loo) and the campsite there!
The
launch was a welcome, easy one, then we set off East towards the misty mainland
we couldn’t see. With the tide one way and the wind the other, keeping the
boats Eastwards using our compasses wasn’t easy, aiming for pimples and then
the middle of peaks! Having checked a tracking app, we had done a straight
line across for 12km.
Galmisdale Eigg to Tigh na Mara campsite (2)
En
route, we saw a little family of puffins and a pod of dolphins swimming in the
opposite direction.
We
aimed and landed exactly where we needed to be to explore the skerries before
Arisaig, we tried to land at Arisaig for a lunch break, after the “warm
welcome” at Arisaig, and feeling slightly tired needing a break after 3 to
4hrs paddling we found a little nook around the corner with lots of seals in
the distance and relaxed and had lunch. The sun was peeking through, and we
took a gentle paddle right back to the campsite where our cars and lots of
camping space & sunshine awaited us.
Gamisdale Eigg to Tigh na Mara campsite (5)
The
campsite was slightly hidden behind rocks, blink and
you could miss it! We needed to seek out the phone mast on the hill and the 2
wooden pods on the right. It was an easy landing to a great trip.
This
was topped off by some great fish chips & mushy peas in Mallaig on the
pier front.
I
learnt so much from my first trip away with the club!
Thanks
Ian, Catriona, and everyone on the trip for making a great team effort and a
trip I won’t forget