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Alpine
holiday to the Ecrin / Durance region of France 2016
Every thing
was all booked and running to time with Dominic and Paula already in France and
Mark and Marianne making their way down.
The motorways were clear and gave a good run down to
Once on the
Ferry we began to relax and enjoy the holiday. The trip down went quickly with loads of
space in the Mercedes Minibus but we were due on the campsite at 4:00am so we
decided to stop off in a picnic spot on the road over to Gap and get some sleep
stretched out under the stars. (a
real shame not everyone left out their sleeping bags!!). In the morning we drove to the first
little French town and enjoyed pain au chocolate and coffee. It was a novelty arriving on the
campsite late morning but we pitched our tents and set up camp and showered,
just 16 hours late.
This
year’s group included: Keith Steer, Sara Bergqvist, Pete Thomas, Carole
Thomas, Fiona Barry, Sarah Gille, Leanne Murray, Helen Siertsema, Graham
Devaney, Stuart Conway, Chris Wood, Lucy Stuart, Chris Murphy, Charlie Murphy, Oliver Murphy, Claire Murphy, Mark
Benson, Aaron Benson and
Photographs……….
More
information on the trip……..
24/07/16 Day 1 - The Middle Durance (Campsite to the
Airfield)
Well
it had been a long drive down and now that we had put up all the tents and
sorted out the camp there was time for a quick run down the middle
Durance. The minibus was put at the
get out (airfield) and Keith and Sara cycled back but took a little longer than
needed with an extra hill climb added in for good measure. Some of us had carried up to the top of
the slalom course and made several runs, while the rest waited at the bottom
ready for the off.
We
paddled as two groups, turning and eddying out as required. The water was very fast and cold but the
mountains and sunny conditions gave a great atmosphere. The size of the waves
and width of the water were all new to me but there were numerous small rapids
and wave trains to keep everyone on their toes.
Dominic
Fahey
More
Photos…..
25/07/16 Day 2 – (The
This is a wonderful
pretty valley below the historic town of
A
couple of play waves enroute distracted us from our journey and then we were beneath
the towering structures of the Eygliers cliffs. We drifted further down the 7km
stretch practising our break ins / outs and on past the usual get out near the
N94 bridge. A km further on brought
us to the confluence of the river Durance where the size of the river now
quadrupled. Long sweeping bends and
gravel beaches gave rise to some boiling water (funny water) and soon we were
at the top of the St Clements Slalom course. This feature near the raft get on
at St Clements has three main features or waves. The first is an excellent play wave with
easy surfing. The second is often
bigger with a steeper section in the middle of the river. The third is a large hole in middle of
the river some 50m above the road bridge.
Most usually paddle this on either shoulder but if you are brave enough
can be surfed.
At
the get out we all practised our defensive swimming and throw line
rescues. It was clear that most if
not all needed this practise as our first throws were often comical to say the
least. We spent an hour in the sun
having a picnic or browsing in the canoe and kayak shop on site.
Sara
Bergqvist
More
Photos…..
26/07/16 Day
3 - The Briancon Gorge
We
arrived at the car park to find a difficult minibus manoeuvre to get around a
car parked considerately in the centre, so the trailer was quickly unhitched
and everyone gave a hand to move the trailer into a better position.
After
a short briefing of the river to come, those who where keen where swiftly ready
to head down the first section. A
rocky garden which was a relatively a straight run, with some rocks to
manoeuvre and follow the waters flow down to the bottom. Everyone got down safely and where all
well warmed up for the next section.
This began with a wooden shoot. Unfortunately the water level was low
and it was quite difficult to get onto the wooden ramp which ended in a bit of
a ski jump. Once on the slide a bit
of speed was needed to run down the slide otherwise it was a bit of a rocky
landing. As I found out!!
We
should have taken the hint at the level at the slide because the next section
was a horrid rocky scramble, many moons away from kayaking. However we mustered
through.
There
was on section in which there was a small drop with an angled wave at the
bottom. I had performed a slow motion brace to right myself (zoom in to worried
face on picture below) unfortunately Leanne was not so lucky- despite banging
for a rescue in the pool below spectators where busy taking photos to react to
the imminent swim!
Later
we moved into the last section where more water had gathered from the three
hydro-scheme pipes which flushed jets of water back into the river. We passed over the Briancon weir with
ease and soon met up with the rest of the gang, ready for the next section.
Sarah
Gille
More
Photos…..
26/07/16 Day 3 – The Upper Durance
After a quick blast
of the Briancon gorge for some, the group reformed to descend the Prelles
section of the Upper Durance. We set off in two groups being led by myself or
Graham. The water was slightly higher than we’re used to in this section,
but this was no challenge for the group who powered over the top of the
fantastic wave trains.
Just
before the bridge we eddied out to discuss the following section and agreed to
an eddy-hopping competition. Here the group pushed themselves to pick their own
eddies along either side of the bank, as well as behind boulders in the middle
of the river. They worked hard to practice their breaking in and out, showing
great skill and commitment. There was a bit of excitement in one eddy as a few
members of the group spotted a frog on the bank. As usual there were stinky
sections of the river as we passed through the refuge site and the sewage
works, but this didn’t take anything away from a fantastic section of
river.
Lucy
Stuart
More
Photos…..
26/07/16 Day 3 The
It was getting a bit
late in the day to do anything other than a short section of the Upper Guisane
and our put-in was just below the feature known as ‘S Bend’. There
are many grand rivers in the
A few rocks scattered
here and there and a small weir added interest to the trip and everyone managed
to avoid being tipped out of their boat despite the very loud bangs I heard behind
me occasionally as plastic made violent contact with boulder.
Eventually
we came to the she hangs up the
globe as a signal that her husband isn’t home. Sadly (for her) the fast
flowing water and the distinct scarcity of decent eddies to catch, has meant
that no eligible male from the club has ever been able to take advantage of her
signal.
Finally,
a bridge decorated richly with garlands of flowers was reached and this was our
get-out just short of the
Another
great day with a great team of mates.
Pete
Thomas
More
Photos…..
27/07/16 Day 4 The Lower Durance (Sunshine Run)
Given
the weather forecast of tres chaud et il
fait soleil, the Sunshine Run was a pretty obvious choice for the day. We started just above the slalom course
at St Clément, where we all had a chance to run the rapids as a warm up
for the day. As we left St
Clément, the river widened and we all appreciated the scenery of the
surrounding valley as we got carried along by the current before the river
became a little bit bouncy. As the
river meandered through the valley floor, the wave trains through the corners
became bigger and bouncier, leading to a couple of swims (and some pretty good
rescuing skills!). There were
plenty of waves where all the playboaters had the chance to show off their play
boat skills.
It
wasn’t long before we eddied out and realised we were at the last eddy
before the (in-)famous Rabioux Rapid (affectionately referred to as the Rab Wave). We all got out to go and have a look
at the wave and the best line to take that would lead to the least chance of
swimming. Everybody decided they
wanted a go at getting through it (although some people needed a bit more
encouragement than others… ), and so one-by-one we eddied out and tried
to remember the line we’d been told to take, some more successfully than
others, although there were only 2 swims. After a leisurely lunch break watching
rafts and hydro-speeders tackle the wave we set off again.
During
the afternoon the river got wider and noticeably more bouncy, particularly for
those of us in fairly low volume boats! There were plenty of opportunities to
practice surfing the wave trains around the wide bends of the river, while
having the chance to rest when the river quietened down a little. There was even the chance to enjoy some
more of the scenery, and spot the vultures soaring on the thermals. For those of us who’d never been
to the Lower Durance before, we’d been warned that this section had a
slight sting in the tail before the get out. Sure enough, we soon came across a
particularly large rapid, which everybody had fun getting through (apart from
Helen Seirtsema, who swam down the entire rapid). We then quickly came across the Embrun
Wave, which again, everybody had fun getting through (apart from Helen
Seirtsema, who swam again). The rest of the river was uneventful, and we were
soon out of the river, changed, and having a well-deserved Haagen-Daaz ice
cream.
Chris
Wood
More
Photos…..
28/07/16 Day 5 Glacier Blanc mountain
walk
The
campsite at L’Argentiere la
Bessee is located in the
The Glacier of
choice, visited numerous times on previous
We
set of at 7.00 am on a fine clear day to drive to the start of the walk at Pre
de Madame Carle. The early start was so we could walk in the cool of the
morning, when it was also quieter. The first part of the walk was a steeply
twisting path of zigzags leading to a boulder field below the glacier. A marmot
was spotted on the way up and Graham hand feed it a small piece of
croissant,(not sure if that’s a healthy diet for a marmot but it seems they are often feed by
passing humans). At the bridge mentioned above, we had a group photo with the
glacier in the background; these photos over the years may show how much the
glacier has receded in recent times.
We
left one of the group at the bridge as the upper section was steeper and
involved a little scrabbling with some iron work hand holds as protection. The
refuge was reached after about 2 hours with 668 metres of ascent and, although
we had reached the hut, we had not stood on the glacier so, those that wished
to do so set off to walk for a further half hour upwards along the glacier
moraine until we reached a spot where we could drop on to the glacier itself.
From
this point the walk up the glacier to the next higher altitude refuge required
a little better equipment than trainers.
After
photos and some hopping and dancing with glee on the ice we set of back down to
the refuge to join Pete and Keith
who had stayed at the hut reserving a picnic table for lunch, as it was
now getting busy. We set off back down at different paces and all joined up at
the bottom of the walk for a drink at the cafe at Pre de Madame Carle, after a
most enjoyable day.
Keith
and Sara retrieved their cycles from the bus and set off for a twisty downhill
ALL the way to Argentiere, arriving not long after the bus with the rest of us
on board. Myself Carole, Pete, Leanne, Graham, Lucy, Chris W, and Stuart.
Caz
Thomas
More
Photos…..
29/07/16 Day 6 The
After a two
hour drive in a cheesy smelling minibus, we arrived at the fort at Condamine in
the
Helen Seirtsema
More
Photos…..
29/07/16 Day 6 The Ubaye Race Course
Some of us
had not been paddling enough white water over the last 12 months and set off
down the renowned Racecourse section of the Ubaye with that wobbly bladder and
stomach feeling. The first grade 4
rapid gives you a rude awakening, some more than most. On to the next tricky rapid which is a
technical manoeuvre around a massive boulder in the middle of the river. Some
dozy chump decided to stop paddling at the bottom of this and got their head
wet.
All back in
our boats, we blasted down the rest of this fantastic section bouncing over
grade 4 rapids and avoiding rocks.
This river offers continuous bouncy rapids with the odd calmer stretches
to collect swimmers and kit, if required.
The infamous Shark’s Tooth rapid came into view which is another
grade 4 feature with large boulders to weave through; the instantly
recognisable, pointed rock at the end gives this rapid its name. However, the chump was not on form and
stared at stoppers instead of looking at where they were going, and lo and
behold, ended up doing a slow motion capsize. Boat and chump back in action and
onto the final section of this river which is a nice bouncy drop/rapid, which,
takes you under the famous roman bridge which straddles the gorge.
Helen
Seirtsema
More
Photos…..
30/07/16 Day 7 Château-Queyras - Via ferrata
Report
to follow….
Claire
Murphy
More Photos…..
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30/07/16 Day 7 Château-Queyras Gorge
Report
to follow….
Chris
Murphy
More Photos…..
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30/07/16 Day 7 The Middle Guil
Report
to follow….
Ollie
and Charlie Murphy
More Photos…..
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30/07/16 Day 7 l’Argentière la Bessée
Bouldering Competition
On
the Saturday night we all went along to watch the final of the International
Bouldering Competition. Some of
us even took chairs!!
What is an International Open ? It’s a bouldering competition that is
open to all comers. It will take place on Thursday July 28th at
l’Argentière la Bessée. All competitors will have 2 sessions of
2 hours to try and hopefully climb 30 qualifying boulders (from 5+ to 8a).
The
six best female and male climbers will take part in a final on the evening of
Saturday July 30th. Whatever your
level, come and have a go, there will be something for everyone! The International Open is about
mixing up amateurs and professionals of our sport, so we can all share the
experience, meeting new people and have some laughs together.
To
take part you just need to have an FFME competition licence, or an
international licence. For non-French youth A and juniors, a senior IFSC
licence is needed. Prizes will be
awarded to the top 5 climbers in the Grand Finale : 1st: 1500€; 2nd:
800€; 3rd: 450€; 4th: 200€; 5th: 100€ More
Photos…..
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31/07/16 Day 8
Our
day in
We
set off to cross the international border between
Arivaderchi!!!!!!!
Fiona
Barry
More Photos…..
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01/08/16 Day 9 La Biaysse – Fressinieres to Pallon
(Grade 2-3)
Report
to follow….
Graham
Devaney
More Photos…..
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01/08/16 Day 9 Lower Guil to St Clements
This was our
first river of the day. We arrived at the get to find lots of different groups;
mainly Germans practicing breaking in and out and ferry gliding. The
put-in is river left just below the bridge on a very narrow road from
Guillestre to La Font d' Eyeliners. This is a Grade 3 run of about 7km.
On the way
down there was plenty of little rapids for the group to practice skills, with
clearly defied Eddies.
The
Guil joins the Durance and triples in volume. We continued down passed the slalom
course to get out at St-Clement. Here is an opportunity to use the rolling pool
/ kayak canal and re-run the Slalom course.
Great
morning paddling.
Stuart
Conway
More
Photos…..
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02/08/16 Day 10
The
Ubaye is one of the highlights of the LCC Alps holiday, so there were no
complaints when a second day trip was announced. John (Allerton) kindly offered
a lift, which Aaron and I were pleased to take advantage of. Travelling by car
allows a route directly over the Col de Vars; scenic even by Alpine standards.
We had time for a brief stop at the summit and arrived at the get on, below the
Once
again we split into two groups. Graham, leading one of the groups, took time
for group coaching as they progressed down the river. At moderate to low water
levels, a little higher than the previous week, all were able to enjoy the
varied grade 3/2 paddling down to the RV campsite at Jausiers.
Mark
Benson
More
Photos…..
02/08/16 Day 10 Ubaye Race Course
I have seen on previous pictures from the
Whilst away on this occasion – I asked what this feature is and found it’s called the Ubaye Racecourse and also found out the trip was also planned later in the week.
Wednesday came and we set off at 8am, in the morning we did the upper Ubaye section and then moved to the get in on the Lower Racecourse section after Lunch. The river was wide with clear water and I had a little anticipation as I was told its continuous grade 3 – 4 all the way – however I wanted to see the magnificent arches at the end of the river.
The team set off weaving in and out of rocks boofing and dropping in to stoppers – the good thing was it started at a good level – the features were not too difficult so we eased in to the process. The features on the river are excellent with short flowing easy rapids then grade 3 sections periodically spaced in between – then all of a sudden large drops and grade 4 features.
From the guide
A consistent stretch of class 3+ to 4 whitewater with
fun big and bouncy rapids and surprisingly warm water. 15 rapids in quick
succession, including named rapids like Dent
de Requin (Shark’s Tooth) and Rouleau de Printemps (Spring Roll) make this section a must for
your kayaking bucket list. The scenery is outstanding with views over the
wooded valley, and at the end of the descent the river narrows through a sheer
sided gorge
Picking our way down the river you needed constant concentration to weave in and out of the rocks – sometimes back paddling mixed with constant correction strokes.
We all rounded the bend and eddied Keith gave us a new hand signal not in the guide book – place hand flat and at a right angle to head thumb touching scalp – then directly after point to your tooth at side of mouth. This indicates shark tooth – and the feature is aptly named a huge rock pointing skywards shaped just like a sharks tooth.
At the end of the run we rounded and long flowing corner
rapid and then I saw the arches a sight to behold the river slowed and was
channeled between two high walls passing under the 2 huge arches. We stopped to look skywards – the
place is truly spectacular the arches magnificent and the sides like the hanging
gardens of
The group that paddled with on this day nailed all the features with style and precision.
In hindsight – I want to go back
to
John
Allerton
More
Photos…..
03/08/16 Day 11 The Upper Durance
Report
to follow….
Keiron
Allerton
More
Photos…..
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03/08/16 Day 11 The
Anxious
to start a relaxing lunch we packed up swiftly following the morning river run
and then off to the get-on for the
Once
on the river, with Mark Benson taking up his traditional position at the back,
we bounced and weaved our way through the waves with the occasional break out
as we made our way towards the dreaded S-bends *du du duhhhh*. Some of the
group decided at this point to endure the extreme portage, while the more
experienced members powered down.
Back
on the water a few decided to give a synchronised rolling display
(successfully) at a tricky weir. After this entertainment we passed though the
much admired bridges of Serre Chevalier, under the globe balcony to a relaxing
finish at the rafting centre.
Aaron
Benson
More Photos…..
04/08/16 Day 12 The Verdon
A
hot dry day was forecast so what better than to dunk our bodies in
ffffffreezing cold gorge water? When compared to the Alps, the canton of
Provence has a mostly tame landscape famous for its perfume industry and acres
upon acres of lavender fields but slicing right through a good chunk of it is
the mega impressive Verdon Gorge which cuts clean and deep through ancient
limestone.
We
left our campsite dead on 0700 and Keith drove the 3 hours to the top of the
gorge while the rest of us snored in the back of the bus. Obviously the place
is very popular and despite our early start, we had difficulty finding a
parking space on the narrow road above the river. The sun was high in the sky
by the time we got to the edge of the water and most of us had begun to bake.
That was easily solved by our first swim across the fast flowing river to our first
“jump”. A slippery rock was scaled and everyone launched high off
the rock into the deep green water and quickly headed across the river again
into the sun. All too quickly we were each following Keith downstream, laying
on our backs with our feet as high as possible to avoid entanglement with the
rocky bottom. More importantly, we all tried to get our backsides as high as
possible to avoid bashes and bruises on the many rocks.
The
river swept us away through some fantastic steep and high rock scenery and
eventually we arrived once more at a sunny beach where we had time to catch our
breath and warm up a bit. Above us
we saw a number of climbers who were on impossibly smooth walls and, judging by
the amount of rock above them, I dare say they’re still there now trying
to get to the top of their chosen route.
A
local guide took it on himself to tell us about some of the challenges they
face trying to earn a living leading groups down the gorge. Apparently the
activity is under threat of closure from the authorities who are concerned
about potential damage to the environment. We proceeded with renewed caution
and tried to avoid further contact with the guide.
Another
large boulder came into view and this time it was much higher than our earlier practice
jump. Most of us didn’t hesitate a second to jump into the deep water but
I stupidly held my arms out horizontally as I hit the water, the result was
stinging hands as if I had been whacked by the cane from the headmaster.
A
syphon came into view and, although some of us swam through it, Im certainly
happy to give them a wide berth and never want to go near any of them while
paddling.
Our
get out came into view and a short ascent up a scree slope took us to a number
of dark tunnels requiring us to use head torches. These tunnels eventually led
us back to our starting point and we quickly changed out of our wet gear and
drove higher up to an amazing view point where we had lunch and marvelled at
the vultures that were taking a ride on the thermals coming up from the gorge.
What it must feel like to be able to fly and join them in their easy
acrobatics.
A
necky drive down steep switchback bends eventually led us to the large lake at
the bottom of the gorge where we had a chance to cool of and snooze in the
shade for an hour before heading out again through lavender and sunflower
fields in search of a restaurant that the team had visited during a
previous trip. A well-earned meal
was enjoyed by all as darkness descended. With a long drive ahead of him and
the treat of a thunderstorm, I was impressed by Keith’s patience as we
tucked into helpings of pavlova for desert.
I
think most of us slept though the heavy rain and lightning on the way back and
I was glad that it had abated for a while as we piled into our tents, tired and
happy at half past midnight.
Yet
another great action-packed day with LCC.
Our
Pete
Thomas
More Photos…..
05/08/16 Day 13 The Lower Durance “My water taxi J”
The
day started at St Clements. Keith had decided to break all the safety rules and
paddle the section from the camp site on his own to meet us there, tut
tut!! We then waited patiently for
Pete and others to do the shuttle, which took an hour and a half. Apparently
the traffic was bad but I think Helen just needed more cheese!
We
then set off as one big group down the sunshine run in the glorious sun shine!
Sarah, Leanne and I decided to raft up for several rapids, which was great fun
and Caz soon got in on the action. We then came to the Rab wave. After inspection I stood on the
rock to guide people through the Keith line. Those who listened got through no
problems; those that didn’t were fished out in the pool below!!
After
lunch we carried on down to Embrun. Everyone managed to successfully navigate
the huge wave trains and there was some more rafting! The last feature of the
river is a weir which Keith likes to play in. Last time he didn’t get a
chance to play because someone decided to take a swim to cool down so this time
he instructed that no one was allowed to swim so he could play. I replied
“don’t worry … if someone does swim we will collect the
stuff, you stay and play”
Over
the weir we went and yes, I did go over and swim! I did try to roll but it was
an epic fail! Keith did however stay and play on his wave! Helen picked me up
on the back of her boat and started to paddle me away. After a while I asked if
there was any chance we could go to the side soon. She responded with, “I
was just going to paddle you to the get out” I said OK, and hung onto my
water taxi to the steps at the get out!!!
Another
great day with some comedy moments!!!
Fiona
Barry
More
Photos…..
05/08/16 Day 13 Friday Evening: The ClockTower
Following
our paddle down the Sunshine run on our last day, Chris M had mentioned that he
traditionally climbed the historic Clock Tower Via ferrata above Argentiere on
his last evening and was taking Ollie. I jumped on board with Pete and Graham.
Clare
kindly picked up lanyards for us before the hire shop shut, and we set off
along the backstreets of Argentiere to the start of the climb. The climb is
fairly steep and vertical with some exposure but has lots of protection with
plenty of foot and hand holds and so is graded as facile or easy. The wind,
which had picked up, made it a bit more interesting with some gusts making me
hold on tightly. We reached the top after 30mins, photos were taken as the
clock struck a quarter.
We
headed down a small protected section leading past a wall with climbers
clipping into bolts or top-roping, we watched for a bit and thought next year
we should bring a rope and a have a climbing session!
We
arrived back at the campsite in time for the last night BBQ.
L’Argentière – L’Horloge
Access is from the car park at Le Collets climbing site. This is
5 minutes away from the Argentière Gite on the crag on the top of which
is the Argentière clock tower which dominates the skyline. The area is
even floodlit at night.
The via ferrata is short, taking less than an hour and climbing
some 50 metres. It is specifically designed for beginners and children of 8 and
over. The first part is particularly easy, enabling one to get use to using the
equipment in a methodical and safe manner. There is a “get out”
path, half-way up, for those who decide that via ferratas are not for them, but
also a good place to take pictures! The second half is more committing and has
quite a good overhanging section. Once you reach the top, just by the Clock
Tower, you have a lovely view over L’Argentière and a nice walk
down back to the climbing site.
06/08/16 Day 14 The Lower Gyronde to Camping Les Ecrins
To
get this now traditional last day paddle demands an early start in the midst of
packing. This year, it was just Keith and I who were up for getting wet so
close to leaving. Thanks to a shuttle from Pete, we were soon on a low but
runnable Gyronde, starting at the campsite bridge where it slackens off to
Grade 3 before joining the Durance.
Weaving
between the rocks and bouncing over a few, we soon came to the broken weir.
Unfortunately, I got too close to an over-hanging rock above the weir and
tipped in. Rescuing myself and my kayak, I was unable to stop my paddles from
floating away and over the weir. There they remained hidden despite Keith's
best efforts (appreciated). Then, just as I was about to build-up my splits,
Excalibur-like, they gently floated out, directly to me in the eddy.
Back
on the easing river, I counted myself lucky, as we made our way to the
Argentiere slalom course and a last burst of kayaking energy before the final
eddy-out of the holiday.
Thanks
to Keith and everyone else in LCC who make this annual trip such a good holiday
and paddling opportunity!
Mark
Benson
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Photos…..