Club Expedition to Alaska 2018 (Whittier to Perry Island, Meares Glacier and Unakwik Inlet and return via Esther Island) “A Temperate Rainforest?”	LCC Home Site Map Page last updated
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Club Expedition to Alaska (Whittier to Perry Island, Meares Glacier and Unakwik Inlet and return via Esther Island) “A Temperate Rainforest?”

This club’s expedition to Prince William Sound is now well established with trips in 2008, 2010, 2013, 2016 and again in 2018. This time we headed out to Perry Island in search of whales and then to Unakwik Inlet to find Meares Glacier.  This involved some fairly-long, open crossings; including several in the thick fog. We were stormbound for several days with strong gusty winds and heavy rain.

Every day we encountered something interesting including, humpback whales, black bears, Orca, Steller Sea lions and common harbour seals, deer, sea otters, bald headed eagles and many other sea birds. They seemed to be everywhere.  We also paddled up to enormous tide-water glaciers. 

Our friend Levi Hogan (below) shuttled us to and from Whittier along with supplying his fleet of high quality UK Sea kayaks.

Keith Peek	Mark Pawley	Ruth Edwards	Ian Bell

Mike Alter	Andy Garland		Martin Aldridge

Roger Morgan	Chris Preston	Frankie Annan,	Nikki Aldridge

The flight out and getting to Whittier

Levi Hogan from Turnagain Kayaks

This year, not only did we find a new outfitter, Levi Hogan and Turnagain kayaks but we also found cheaper and more direct flights via Iceland.  Consequently, we had a much larger group than normal with 12 of us making the journey out to Anchorage.  The flights cost around £800 with a short stop over (2hrs) in the new North Atlantic hub of Reykjavik.  On the way-out we were all kicking ourselves as we should have booked a couple of days in Iceland instead of flying straight through.  We had to endure numerous advertising videos and TV programmes teasing us with the best that Iceland had to offer.

After our midmorning departure from Manchester we arrived in Alaska 12 hours later at 5pm local time and still in daylight.  A quick free shuttle to our hotel and we were unpacking in 3 large and spacious rooms.  That evening we discovered Gwennie’s Old Alaska Restaurant, just opposite our hotel.  Great home cooking.       More Photos……….

16th August (Thursday) – Whittier to Decision Point

After rising early and helping ourselves to the buffet breakfast of Waffles, toast, tea or coffee, cereal, muffins, fruit and yogurt we returned to our rooms to pack and get ready.

Levi Hogan from Turnagain Kayaks turned-up exactly on time at 9:00am.  We put our bags into the enormous sea kayak trailer (and old car transporter trailer) and headed to Fred Mayers to buy our food.  60 mins later and we had all purchased what we thought would be enough food to keep us nourished for two weeks.   We were cooking in groups of two with a petrol stove between us.

 Driving along Turnagain Arm on Highway One we saw a group of white beluga whales. We turned up towards Portage Glacier and the old converted railway tunnel which is the only way into Whittier.   We only just made it with 2 minutes to spare.   We unloaded the boats, gear and food at Lazy Otters slipway and beach which is right next to the ferry terminal.  Within 30 minutes Levi was ready to leave, taking our airport bags with him in the trailer.  We topped up with water and were ready to paddle out into Passage Canal some 45 mins later.  

Our first stop was Kittiwake Falls, two tall cascades over steep rock which fall directly into the sound.  Nikki tried to go behind the falls, but it was low tide and there were too many rocks in the way.  Group photo over we headed out along the north shore marvelling at the scenery and wildlife.  Bald Headed eagles peered down at us from nearly every lone pine.   Two red sails were spotted in the distance.  As we came nearer the turned out to be pedalos / kayaks / sailing Trimaran combinations that are hired out for the day from Whittier.  Near Billings Creek we spotted our first bear, it was fishing for Salmon near one of the fresh water streams where they come to breed. 

We crossed over to Squirrel Point and checked out the campsite there.  Nobody was using it, so it was a possibility if Decision Point was too crowded.  We rounded the headland and could see in three directions.   The Marine Park campsite at Decision Point was ideal.  4 camp platforms, a shingle beach with access on both sides and excellent views, a steel bear-proof food cache and an outhouse (composting toilet).  We cooked on the beach and set up camp on the point and settled down to our first night out in the sound.

Keith S     More Photos………. Audio Report……..

17th August (Friday) – Decision Point to Perry Island

We awoke early after our first night’s camp in Prince William Sound.   From the campsite at decision point we could see three ways along three fjords hence the name.  We were on the water about 50 minutes early, all eager to start paddling.  We headed south across to Surprise cove for elevenses.   Surprise Cove is a maintained campsite, very picturesque with good facilities and very sheltered.  From here we crossed Cochrane Bay to Culross Island.  We had lunch on a small pebbly beach in the rain but managed to find shelter under a small cave with an overhanging rock.   From here we had great views north all the way up Port Wells Passage to the massive glaciers at its head (Harvard and Yale to the right and Barry’s and Cox glaciers to the left).

We paddled across the entrance to Culross Passage and around the northern tip of Culross Island where we spotted a couple of fishing boats putting out their circular nets to scoop up the migrating salmon.   We headed off across the sound towards Perry Island where the map indicated that a good beach could be found for camping.   When we got there, we could only find a very small area above the expected hightide mark.  We cooked up a very late afternoon tea and although it had been a very long day thought we had enough day left to make it around the tip of Perry Island to a circular cove and idyllic campsite with plenty of space.   

The rock slabs on the NE corner of Perry Island had 100s of Stella Sealions basking in the afternoon sun during our last trip but we were a little disappointed to find that the colony was not there this time.   We did spot two or three sea lions in the water and they followed us for a few miles from a distance.   However, they were soon forgotten when Mike noticed a water spout just off shore.  Then another, and the chase was on.  We paddled to where we thought the Humpback Whales were going to surface again.  Some of us got close enough to see the whales surface and even saw a few tail flukes as they dived to feed in the deep water along the cliffs.   This delayed our progress along the shore line somewhat, but we never got closer than 75 metres. However, it was certainly the highlight of the day.

As the sun began to set we headed around the corner into our cove.   Boats were carried up the beach, tarp and tents deftly erected and our petrol stoves roaring away with hot brews and evening meals.

Mark Pawley   More Photos………. Audio Report……..

18th August (Saturday) – Perry Island to Olsen Island

Despite the long length of the first full day, the team was up and ready to go by the normal 9am start. 

After ensuring that each team had restocked with water, it was time for team brief. Under grey skies the plan was outlined, a 7km crossing to the Dutch Group of Islands for lunch and then via some abandoned oil tanks to Axel Lind island (13km) where we would scout for a campsite. But we might head on a little further if appropriate. Everyone was ok with the plan, but there were a few requests for a repeat viewing of the whale - let's see what we could do.

Heading off as a tight group it was great to hear that everyone chatting that they had recovered from the day before. Just as we were settling into paddling rhythm there was an excited cry of "Whale!". We eagerly looked in the direction pointed, and lo and behold there was the distinctive spout, and noise, of a whale. Alas it was too far away in the wrong direction to make paddling over worthwhile, but at least it was a request met and another tick in the wildlife box.

Steller Sea Lion Type: Mammal Diet: Carnivore Average life span in the wild: 18 (males); 30 (females) Size: 7.75 to 9.25 ft (2.4 to 2.8 m) Weight: 1.2 tons (1.1 metric tons) Group name: Raft (in water); colony (on land) Relative:Size relative to a 6-ft (2-m) man Steller Sea Lion Range

Steller Sea Lion Eumetopias jubatus Stellers are the largest of all sea lions and they have an appetite to match. These giant pinnipeds hunt fish, squid, octopus and, rarely, smaller seals. They are found off northern Pacific coasts from Japan to California. Steller sea lion breeding is one of nature's great mass spectacles. When these giants thunder ashore, their favoured beaches, called rookeries, disappear under their numbers. Young pups are sometimes crushed by the throng, unheeded by powerful males with only a single purpose in mind. Bulls (males) must establish and hold a beach territory in order to breed. Most do not achieve this until they are nine or ten years of age. Females begin to reproduce at about five years of age and typically have one pup per year. Sea lion mothers care for their young and recognize them by a keen sense of smell. Females slip into the sea to hunt and return to their young with the day's catch—identifying their own offspring by touch and scent. These animals are social and also gather at various times throughout the year when mating and breeding are not taking place. Even in crowds, the big bulls are unmistakable—they are three times larger than females. Most Steller sea lion populations declined markedly in the 1980s and 1990s, even though the animals are protected. Scientists are unsure what factor or combination of factors is responsible for the decline.

With spirits high, and the weather conducive to paddling, we headed on towards the Dutch Group. Despite the solitude of the location, at all times we could hear these barks and howls travelling across the sea. The only answer could be sea lions, and it appeared as if the noise was coming from a group of skerries just off our planned route. In my opinion a sea lion colony outweighs historic ruins of oil tanks, so we decided to have 11's on the Dutch Group and then head to the skerries instead. 

With the prospect of a wildlife encounter the group sped up as we headed towards the ever-increasing noise of the colony. A distinctive smell was also ever increasing - Sea lions stink! Regrouping just before the colony, it was obvious that we were massively outnumbered. Cameras at the ready, we quietly paddled in - some more bravely than others. As we neared, but still some distance out, the sea lions decided that they wanted to us to stay away, and the slumbering group became a seething mass of muscle, teeth and barks as they raced into the sea. Recognising that this was their environment we paddled back out - some with rather more vigour than others! Did I mention their big teeth?

Giving the skerries a wide birth so as to give the sea lions some space, you could see the alpha bulls like the generals of old, commanding the troops from their high spots. Given their physical size, and size of their teeth, I was glad that the bulls were still simply observing and ordering from on high.

With the weather closing in we had a quick lunch on Axel Lind island. The plan had been to possibly stay here for the night, however the weather report suggested a storm was coming in, and it was decided to paddle on into the less exposed Olsen Island in Unakwik Inlet.

The miles passed easily as we crossed over to Olsen Island, marvelling at the varied fauna and epiphytic mosses that were draped over the tree branches. All too soon we arrived at Olsen Island where it was time to play the daily game - How high is tonight’s tide???But nothing to worry about, this was a great spot that provided a brilliant spot to stay.

Another fabulous day on the sea. With good friends and good times.

Mike Alter     More Photos………. Audio Report……..

19th August (Sunday) – Olsen Island Storm Bound

With a storm due in, we were given a day off! So, some of us had a bit of a lie in and a slow start to the day. Tarp (x3) city was erected in the trees in anticipation of the rain!!

Over late breakfast in the city, the group discussed the merits of equipment that had been brought on the trip and the interesting food choices of the group. Main topics included the variety of electronic devices that people had with them, camp chairs, jars/tins and fresh veg! There was even a dual language gold leaf hardback book!

Whilst most were passing the time of day with food sorting, reading, or snoozing, the rain began to fall about lunch time. Nikki became the Chief Acquisition Technician for Collection of H2O (C.A.T.C.H.)   This job entailed sourcing the rain water that was falling by using the tarps and strategically placed pans!!

Shortly before the rain had started half of the group (Keith S, Keith P, Roger, Ian, Mark & Andy) decided to stretch their legs and headed off for a ‘short’ walk. This walk turned into a circumnavigation of the island (more details in separate report!!).  5 hours later the intrepid team returned with tales of coasteering, cliffs of no return, crossing of ravines using vine tight ropes, battling through the jungle and triffids!   

Each time the epic journey was recounted it became more and more extreme, oh and also a lot longer! And by bedtime the journey time was 12 hours! The only casualty in this extreme epic (other than a lot of wet clothing!!) was the sad loss of the “bear bell” which will be missed by all (especially Keith P).

And finally, the statistic that this was the start of the rain that failed to stop for the next 56 hours!!!

Ruth Edwards     More Photos………. Audio Report…….. Walk Around the island Audio Report…….

20th August (Monday) – Olsen Island to Island Halfway up Unakwik Inlet

After a very wet day of not doing much (well for those who opted out of the excursion), everybody was camp crazy, so we decided to move on.  The day started really as it meant to go on - grey, overcast and wet.  The tents were wet, the kit was wet, it was wet - many of us considering what we'll be changing for the next trip.  Nevertheless, we were on the water for the now routine time of 9am.  So, all afloat, we made for our one and only crossing for the day.

Getting to the end of the island took significantly less time than the excursion the day before - just saying.  There was thick fog and visibility was low, so compass bearing decided, we grouped up in a fat diamond and started the crossing, keeping an eye out for any boats taking an inshore route and avoiding the worst of the fog out in the sound.  Land came into view, and all was good.

As we continued up the shoreline, the landscape always takes on a spooky theme with such conditions, with low lying cloud, fog and the mountains being dark silhouettes that take on a sinister hue.

Weaving around some islands and small inlets, the map clearly indicated that there was a way to pass through, so off we headed between the islands towards our passage way.  Low and behold, the map lied (well, maybe a white lie), and we were presented with some shallows.  Now to a Sea Kayaker, this was an epic problem.  The decision to get out of one’s boat for a "portage" is just not something one should consider, fortunately to those canoeists in the group, this wasn't so much a portage as a wade, and that's over dramatising it.  So out we got and quickly floated the boats over the shallows and hopped back in.  Unfortunately, this was still too much for Andy and Chris, so they took the 1km detour and paddled around, joining us a "few minutes" later.

And then came wildlife central.  Noticing a cabin, we decided to paddle over and investigate.  Approaching, somebody noticed a bear (I believe this was bear number 2) and then all bets were off, and the group went bear chasing, completely missing the fact that every sea predator in the sound was staring at us for invading their space.  Sea otters, seals, sea lions, bears, birds, the lot.  They most definitely weren't happy that we might be there to steal their salmon, although most likely they were just annoyed that we'd upset the damn sea lions - who started to grow in number and make it very clear we weren't welcome.  So a good laugh :-).

Through the mudflats and then we continued onwards to come across our camp site for the night, which we named Misery Cove.  A small island just about high enough to camp above the tide (albeit it was close) with a convenient area to eat, and a grass area should we have to retreat to higher ground.

Martin Aldridge     More Photos………. Audio Report……..

21st August (Tuesday) – Island Halfway up Unakwik Inlet to Meares Bay and return “Return to Misery Cove”

We woke up to find it was still raining. We took down our tents and loaded up our kayaks in the rain and then set off for Mears Glacier. 

It was a cold and wet paddle with plenty of waterfalls to be seen, including one particularly big one which a few people wanted to play in. Personally, I was so cold and wet, I was sure that any swim would be certain death! 

We were not disappointed by the sea otters, who were still floating around all over the place, despite the rain and the cold. As we got closer to the glacier, grey seals were also becoming more common (at least they have blubber to deal with the cold!).

We also encountered our first icebergs... or were they bergy bits?

When we stopped for elevenses, we were all cold, wet through and, to be honest, miserable. Keith recommended that it may not be a good idea for us to continue to the glacier today because it was only going to get colder as we got closer to the glacier. We all agreed to turn back and return to our previous night's camp. 

As we came around the island back to our beach, we were greeted by a deer on the beach.

As we reinforced our man-made camp platforms against the anticipated higher tide and re-pitched our wet tents in the rain, we decided to name this cove 'Misery Cove'.

Finally, around 4pm that afternoon, and after 50 hours of non-stop rain, the rain stopped, and the clouds cleared just enough for us to glimpse the surrounding snow-capped mountain tops. We went to bed that night hoping it would stay dry into the next day.

Nikki Aldridge     More Photos………. Audio Report……..

22nd August (Wednesday) – Island Halfway up Unakwik Inlet to Meares Glacier

Waking up in a wet tent after a night of more heavy rain and waves that came close to our camp spots it was relief to realise it had actually stopped raining. The plan was to be on the water by 9 as usual. The thought of a brighter day and sunshine later made packing away wet gear slightly more bearable.

Being leader for the day was made easier by the fact that we were repeating the previous days paddle from unnamed island partway up Unakwik Inlet to an unnamed spot for elevenses before heading onto Meares Glacier.

Setting off with less cloud meant that this time views of glaciers on mountain tops appeared briefly between the clouds. Views of mountain tops were rare indeed on this trip. As we paddled towards ‘elevenses beach’ Chris commented it’s like Coniston on steroids, as the water was glassy and still and lake like in appearance for a while.

After an elevenses stop that was noticeably warmer than the previous day; though the change in air temperature was still noticeable we set off ‘around the corner’ to Meares Glacier.

Some Glacier Facts (source https://alaska.guide/Glacier/Meares-Glacier) Location: 61 ° 14' 23" N, 147 ° 25' 3" W Region: Valdez-Cordova (CA) Nearest City: Valdez Length: 15 mi (24.14 km) Elevation: 4528 ft (1380.13 m) Tributary to: Unakwik Inlet

Meares Glacier is the only advancing glacier in Prince William Sound. Located in the Chugach Mountains between Aspero Peak and Mount Michelson. It was named in 1909 by U.S Grant and D.F Higgins, US Geological survey for Captain John Meares 1756 -1809, British Naval officer, explorer and trader.

As we paddled around the corner, the amount of ice in the water increased, ‘icebergs’ but not really.  Here is a definition of icebergs https://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/iceberg.html what we were seeing were mostly bergy bits and growlers 

Following Keith’s clear instructions not to paddle too close to the glacier due to the risks associated with calving, which increases at high water, there appeared to be a crazy race straight to the glacier. The size simply misleads the eye, and what looks to be close is still a safe distance away. The seals however hadn’t heard Keith’s warnings as they reclined on the ice flow at the base of the glacier. The signs of the advance of the glacier could be seen where trees had been pushed over along the shoreline. The thunderous booms as ice fell away from the face of the glacier were a reminder of the power of nature. 

After taking many photos, including the ‘must have’ of paddlers in front of the glacier shot, we made our way to the opposite side of the inlet and our campsite, right by the Glacier but protected by a rock outcrop from wave surges caused by larger chunks of ice falling off the glacier. Not long after landing the shout “watch the boats” was heard after a louder boom gave warning of a wave heading our way.

After unpacking in the sunshine (yes sunshine – a miracle it seemed) the beach was soon covered in kit drying and the tents up on higher ground were drying off nicely; the tarp went unused for a change. Apparently swimming with ‘icebergs’ is a must do thing – so Nikki and Mark got changed and divided right in. Mark even got on some ice to do what was described as a ‘mermaid’ pose. I didn’t know mermaids reclined on ice – I thought it was seals. The water was reported to be refreshing and not as cold as expected -I took their word for it!

As the paddling part of the day had finished mid-afternoon there was time for some exploring and after a short scramble up from the beach a spot was found for glacier watching. Literally sitting watching and waiting for ice to fall of the glacier face.

Warm and relaxed it was time for the evening meal and this meant dahl and rice for Chris, Mark, Roger and me.  After a rubbish fire (started controversially by Keith, and not Ian ‘one match’ Bell), we drifted off to our tents for a dry night’s sleep listening to the thunderous booms from the glacier and the sound of waves hitting the beach.  A wonderful dry day.

Frankie Annan     More Photos………. Audio Report……..

23rd August (Thursday) – Meares Glacier to Olsen Cove

We had a long paddle ahead of us, so when I heard Keith 1 telling Keith 2 (through my slumber at 6.30am) “get the tent down, it's going to rain soon”, I was up and out like a shot. 

It was exactly what we all didn't want to hear after the sunny reprieve of the previous day, but we knew it was coming and the last thing we wanted was to miss the honour of packing away dry tents for the first time that week. Pulling on my totally dry paddling gear was a joy and the tent was down double quick. We all got busy packing the boats and having breakfast in a massive effort to be on the water before the rain started!

Keith 1 was first on the water (not unusual) and disappeared around the corner in the direction of Meares Glacier and we were not far behind him, all wanting to grab a few more photos and say goodbye to that awesome spectacle. I found it mesmerising and could have stayed there for ages, but of course the rain had started, and people wanted to start paddling because they were getting cold.

It was my day to lead so I started getting everyone together to tell them what they already knew – “we're going THAT way”! Shamefully, I didn't have a map as I wasn't aware we'd each have to lead one day, so I borrowed one from a friend and tried to get my head around the whole navigation idea that I had previously been ignoring, knowing I was in very capable hands. 

Thankfully we were just following the coast of Unakwik Inlet to Olsen Cove, where we hoped to find a 5-star camp site for the night. The weather was grey, murky and obscuring the view. All the wildlife had decided to take the day off so there was little to distract from the greyness, wetness and dullness. 

Long, wet paddling days like this are physically hard going and some people had very uncomfortable boats, leaky boats, leaky spray decks and leaky clothing. Of course, the other very real challenge on such a long trip is psychological. You spend all day, every day with the same people, take breaks under a tarp together, cook under a tarp together and camp in crowded areas trying to stay above the high-tide level. In normal life we have much more space, privacy and comfort. The biggest challenge can be to stay happy and optimistic when conditions are less than ideal. 

That said, there were a few gripes throughout the day about fairly unimportant things and I tried not to take any of it too seriously. I felt that everyone was a bit glum after the high of the glacier and the beautiful weather the previous day. Apart from that, the day was very uneventful and what Stevie Wonder would call a necessary day. Thankfully the rain eased-off in the afternoon and actually stopped to let us pitch our tents and cook on the beach.

Chris Preston     More Photos………. Audio Report……..

24th August (Friday) – Olsen Cove to Oyster farm via Cascade Falls (Eaglet Bay)

After our long, wet paddle from Meares glacier out of Unakwik inlet  it was great to wake up to a nice dry morning.  By now the decamp operation had become pretty slick and in no time at all breakfast had been consumed, our first bear of the day had made an appearance, kayaks were packed, and we were on the water before 9am.

Chris took the first leg out of Olsen bay and as we exited the cove a golden eagle flew overhead toward Olsen island.   We passed a fishing vessel transferring their catch as we headed towards the headland on a southerly course.  Nicky took the lead as we turned south east towards Kiniklik accompanied (or I should say chased) by a number of sea lions.

We had a brief stop at the small Kiniklik inlet marked with a church symbol on the map as Keith thought there might be some historic ruins on the site.  A little investigation at home revealed that there was indeed a native Alaskan settlement there some time ago.  Kiniklik is an Eskimo name and was one of the 2 oldest native villages in Prince William Sound.  The native Alaskans (Chenega) were particularly hard hit by influenza and tuberculosis brought by white settlers and the villages were all but abandoned by 1925, most relocating to Cordova, although a small family fish plant was operated for several years afterward by the Chief and his family. Unfortunately, we found no sign of the village, only a small US geological survey marker and an old bivouac, probably used by hunters.  We only searched for a short while, but it appears the forest had reclaimed the land and we could have been only meters away from it and not known it due to the density of the foliage.

We continued our paddle towards Point Pellow, with our sealion escort and Andy safely surrounded by fellow paddlers.  As we turned the point we also saw Harbour seals and sea otters.  We then turned into Eaglek Bay on our way to Cascade Bay.  We took a fairly direct line towards the northern headland of Schoppe Bay where we stopped for elevenses.   After a brew and a peanut butter wrap (there, I said it, but don’t ask me to talk about these again!)  we headed directly toward Cascade Bay.

We had the bay to ourselves as we had at most of the locations on our trip.  As we got closer we could hear the roar of the waterfall and as we turned the final corner we were not disappointed.  Cascade falls is truly spectacular and is the largest waterfall in Prince William Sound.  It drops 171 feet and descends from a series of lakes that are fed by the Eaglek glacier.  Keith, Ian, Ruth, Mike and Nicky were positively salivating at the white water and all of them were keen to get closer while the rest of the crew stayed clear in one of the eddies either side, not wishing to invite a capsize.  Ian Bell got the prize for the closest approach from what I could see in the left-hand eddy and got a thorough soaking.

As we existed Cascade Bay in drizzle we stopped for lunch on the right-hand headland where we saw a Belted kingfisher patrolling the coastal forest.  After lunch we headed for our final destination across Eaglek Bay to very secluded cove close to the Oyster mariculture area on the peninsula marked by Ragged Point.  It was in this sheltered cove that our second black bear of the day made a brief appearance before disappearing into the forest.  Our camp area was just above the beach but probably vulnerable on the highest of tides.  Keith assured everyone that we should be ok and then added that the others in the group might want to put a watch on throughout the night; but as we were pitched on the highest point we’d get plenty of warming.  The sun set on a lovely evening as we gathered round our pathetic attempt at a fire using the wood that was soaked from the previous day’s rain.  After a great day on the water, with the food safely stashed in triple wrapped bags, dry bags and under a tarp maybe 20m away we turned in for the night safe from the bears and rising tide-we hoped!!    Total Distance covered 30.37km

Keith Peek     More Photos………. Audio Report……..

25th August (Saturday) – Eaglet Bay to Esther Island

We had a good start to the day with a relatively dry breakfast and pack up having, in the end, been well above the tide line (despite the concerns of some on the previous night). This is a campsite I would certainly use again.

WALLY NOERENBERG HATCHERY

The Wally Noerenberg Hatchery (WNH) is the second PWSAC-owned hatchery located in Lake Bay on the southern end of Esther Island in Prince William Sound, approximately 20 miles east of Whittier.  The hatchery was built in 1985 with monies borrowed from the Alaska Fisheries Enhancement Revolving Loan Fund.  WNH is currently permitted for 148 million pink, 165 million chum, 4 million coho, and 4 million Chinook salmon eggs annually.  Sockeye salmon were also cultured at WNH in the past and was transferred to the Main Bay Hatchery in 1990.

Klint Hischke, WNH Hatchery Manager leads a permanent, year-round staff of eight along with a seasonal staff of 12 during the summer months.  Klint has worked with PWSAC (Remote Programs, CCH and WNH) since 2013.  He received his B.S. in Water Resource-Fisheries with a minor in Aquaculture from University of Wisconsin, Stevens Point.

All the Hatchery Managers enjoy giving tours, showing off their hatcheries and the fish, so please stop by if you are in the area.  All the hatcheries can be contacted on VHF 16.

This marine park is located on the southern end of Esther Island, including Lake and Quillian Bays. Lake Bay houses one of the world's largest fish hatcheries. You can also carefully navigate to the head of the bay for an anchorage. A hike along the eastern edge of the lagoon and through a low, forested pass brings you to Esther Lake. The land is too wet and uneven for camping.

The Wally H. Noerenberg Fish Hatchery is owned and operated by the Prince William Sound Aquaculture Corporation (PWSAC). PWSAC is a private, non-profit corporation operating under a special permit with Alaska State Parks. Fresh water can be obtained from the floating dock near the hatchery. Mooring buoys in front of the hatchery may be used if available. 

During commercial openings, the fishing fleet crowds the area and you are advised to stay clear of the nets and boat traffic. During the height of the fish run, black bears can be seen near the hatchery.

We left Eaglet bay just before 9:00am with a flexible plan as to our final destination for the day. The weather forecast for that day was fine, but the following day was looking wet and windy. That was going to influence the decision as to where and when we camped that night.

The first part of the route was basically hand railing the coast to Ragged Point and on to Squaw Bay, before a short crossing to East flank island and then over to Esther Island.  We would then hand-rail the coast to the inlet, which is where the fishery and sea plane base are located. We intended to make the decision as to whether we camped on East Flank or continue to a better location to weather the expected storm.

Having left the campsite bay, we had some good mountain views between the broken clouds at times.   We then passed the current site of the oyster farm. This is just a load of mooring buoys with chains on which they grow the oysters.

We were accompanied by the odd sea lion but made good time and were on course to land at East Flank dead on 11:00 for elevenses. Just as we were about to leave the right-hand coast, a bear was spotted feeding at a stream outlet. This gave the good photographers with big cameras an excellent opportunity for some good shots. They got really close with some stealth paddling and were fortunate to be down wind. This I think set the bear count to 7. After about a quarter hour the bear moved on and so did we. We landed at the north of East Flank island for a break and while we were resting we were entertained by a couple of feeding sea lions. Yet another photo opportunity.

From here we crossed to Esther Island and followed the coast. This section of the journey was relatively uneventful, but we could hear the sea lion colony out on Egg rock and saw some boat traffic in the main shipping lane.  The tour boats headed out to see the sea lion colony. 

We eventually made Esther Island for a late lunch and made our first contact with humans from outside of our group during this trip. As we entered the inlet at Esther Island we spotted a couple of other sea kayakers.  Keith engaged them in conversation about their trip while assessing the landing and camping area, which was located in a side bay just around the corner from the fishery.

They turned out to be a couple of local paddlers setting out to cross over to Valdez and were intending to take up to four weeks. They moved their boats up and we all landed on the small beach area and climbed up the ladder to the lower platform and had lunch while we talked with them. They then left, so we decided then that this should be our base for the night and the next day as we would likely be storm bound. The only real other option being at least another 3 hours of paddling. Camping platforms where bagged and the camp set up.

Once sorted Frankie took a wander up to the top of the campsite boardwalk and had a close encounter with a bear, which did not seem to be bothered by our presence. Others went exploring to the waterfall and took photos while it was not raining.  

Just as most of us where about to call it a night and where heading to our tents, Mark and Rodger came back from a walk they had been on to the fishery (Wally Noerenberg Hatchery – see opposite). They said they had seen at least another 8 bears. With this exciting news a group of us set of with them to see. We did this with caution, taking bear spray etc in cases they were right about the large group of bears.  After the walk around the island the previous week we choose to stay on established paths and not to detour. From the top of the camping area there was an established board walk path to the fishery.  Once there we too were able to spend time watching 6 to 8 black bears fishing along with sea lions that had jumped past the fishery boom and were just feasting on the salmon trying to swim upstream past the rapids to the lake. We watched salmon try (and in most cases fail) to climb the waterfall and the bears crossing over from the wood to the river totally ignoring our presence.

Eventually we headed back to bed as dusk fell.

Ian Bell     More Photos………. Audio Report……..

26th August (Sunday) – Esther Island Storm Bound

Genesis of the Church of Hydrology (AKA Storm bound on Esther Island)

I woke slowly, with the dawning realisation that the water that should be on the outside of my tent was in fact on the inside of my tent.  While I had slept, trillions of water molecules had passed unhindered through my groundsheet and were now making themselves comfy in my sleeping bag.  I assessed my situation and deduced that my fetid body was encased in a festering pile of damp goose down held together by sheets of soggy nylon.  It was not the best of feelings.  It was at this instant that I was struck by a blinding realisation, an epiphany – suddenly it all became clear.  The only way that I was ever to find peace in this world of wetness and ever prevalent damp was to embrace it!  The rain that had been our constant companion over the last few days was not a foe but a friend.  Moisture was good, and wetness divine.  All praise to H2O!  Halleluiah! The Church of Hydrology had been born.

I rushed out of my deliciously damp tent to convert the others.  The first person I met was Frankie. She had just returned from a walk in the rain, and she had chanced upon a wet black bear on the muddy path.  She showed me a photo of the wet bear, in the rain, and I then welcomed her to the faith and christened her ‘Frankie Mistress of Moisture’.  All the others were down by the shore, where they were wickedly trying to keep the nourishing drizzle from touching their bodies by standing beneath a tarp.  I quickly ordained them:

o   Keith S - ‘Deacon Damp’

o   Keith P - ‘Vicar of Drizzly’

o   Martin ‘Priest Precipitation’

o   Ruth ‘Pope Puddle’

o   Mark ‘Archdeacon Drips’

o   Ian ‘Father Fetid’

o   Chris ‘Curate Cats & Dogs’

o   Mike ‘Rector Rain’

o   Nicky ‘Chaplain Clammy’

o   Roger ‘Squire Soggy’.

 It was shortly afterwards that a drenched bear walked through our wet camp and climbed a dripping wet tree.  Some of our party approached the bear, in the rain, to take photos.  However, a wet bear so close to our moisture laden camp was not a good idea, so we frightened it away by banging some billies together (while it rained).  We deduced that the wet bear had been attracted by the smell of food being prepared and coffee being brewed, so we decided to cook on the beach, below the high-water mark, so that the food aroma and any morsels of dropped pasta would be washed away by the wet water as the tide advanced.  It occurred to me that the wet bear in the camp was a divine intervention, as it forced everyone out of the Devil’s Shelter (tarp) out into the God-given showers and delightful drizzle.

That night the wind dropped, but it kept raining – glory, glory be!

Reverend Wet (AKA Andy Garland)

Andy Garland     More Photos………. Audio Report……..

27th August (Monday) – Esther Island to Decision Point

The day started off with an overcast sky in a shade of grey that I hadn't seen before, I felt it was an optimistic grey, heralding light winds from somewhere.

Everybody got onto the water at their own pace and paddled down to see the fish hatchery complex from the seaward side. There was a boom around a small bay to try and stop the Stella Sea Lions getting to the salmon When looking down over this watery enclosure the night before we could see that a few Stella sea lions had somehow managed to get over the barrage and judging from the white turbulence in the otherwise calm waters that morning, they were enjoying their continued salmon frenzy.  The black bears were also still on the shore, picking off the salmon trying to get upstream with ease (note to myself, never be reincarnated as a salmon!!).

I was appointed leader for that day’s paddle, the plan was to paddle from our location on the southern tip of Esther Island to the campsite at Ziegler Cove Marine Park on the mainland. We would head up the western coast of Esther island before making the 8km crossing. I nominated a fellow paddler to lead us out of the cove to some shouts of surprise from other members; this paddler had previously expressed alarm with paddling around the Stella sea lions, whom you could describe as the brainless thugs of the sea lion world, there were a number in the bay, waiting for us. In fairness to both the secondary leader and the Stella's, each got on with their job without hindering the other.

 Hugging the coast, we made our way northwards without incident. The skies cleared at times, giving us good views of the rarely seen mountains on this trip. A good lookout was kept for any whale spouts or activity, but sadly today there was none. We stopped for elevenses near the makeshift camping area then leisurely continued northwards. There was no evidence to be seen of the cabin marked on the map. However, we didn't land to search inland. Shortly before our dinner stop near granite bay there was a signal from Mark, he had spotted some fresh water otters on the shore. They hung around long enough for all of us to catch a glimpse of them, a father mother and two cubs, much smaller than the sea otters, but just as timid and shy.

Following dinner stop we set course approximately SSW to hit the mainland around the area of pirate cove. Unfortunately, the visibility had reduced by now, we couldn't see where we were heading, relying on sound compass work which was delivered by mike alto and a hand-held Silva compass. Half way across, there was a shout that a large dorsal fin had been spotted heading towards us, this was quickly identified as a male killer whale, with eager shouts of excitement from most of the group, and an even louder gasp of "oh gawd" from the secondary leader earlier in the day. Whilst they had come to terms with a nibble from a Stella sea lion, there was still some work to do on the outcome of na Orca`s nibble. During the crossing there were no other sightings of any other whales, and no tell-tale bubbles forming on the otherwise calm waters, a sign of something passing deep beneath observed on earlier crossings where there was whale activity.

After about 1 ¹/₂ hours we made landfall, near a distinguished tower of rock in the sea, and after a short breather we made our way to the Ziegler cove state marine park camping area, hoping to find a bear box to put our food in and other signs of habitation. Alas, they were elusive despite our landing and making a quick search.

Keith took the opportunity to check the weather forecast; it indicated high winds the following day which would prevent us from going on the water. He felt concerned that if the weather front didn't move through as planned, we may be left with a difficult final day`s paddle up Passage Canal, which already had a reputation of high winds blowing against you as default. Following a short discussion, it was agreed we should continue onto the decision point campsite that we had used on our first night of expedition, despite it prolonging our paddling day into a 40km journey. There was the promise of a day off on the following day, a comfortable campsite and... a toilet, there were no complaints.

Ian took the lead, safely delivering us to the campsite where there was thankfully only one established tent. After emptying boats, pitching tents etc. we had food and packed the food cache under a groundsheet to detract bears. Keith reportedly slept next to the cache, to see the Aurora Borealis, we all knew he wanted the final picture of Mr black bear.

Roger Morgan     More Photos………. Audio Report……..

28th August (Tuesday) – Decision Point Storm Bound

The weather forecast has promised wind, and in the middle of night it definitely arrived. Getting up to check that the kit left hanging hopefully to dry hadn’t blown away I realised it wasn’t raining! And the kit was dry. Waking closer to morning and crawling out of the tent for a stroll down the beach, not only was it not raining but the sky was blue with hardly a cloud in sight. It was still pretty windy though. So now we knew that partly sunny = cloudy and horrible all day (Monday’s forecast) and partly cloudy meant sunny all-day Tuesdays forecast!

The realisation that the sun was shining filtered through the campsite and suddenly everyone was scrambling to hang out all the wet kit to dry. Martin was over excited by the prospect of going home with a bag of dry stuff which is much pleasanter  (and lighter) than a bag of wet manky clothes. Never have I seen so many items of underclothing spread out on a beach! The ‘Keith`s’ had beaten us to it and were on the beach enjoying breakfast in the sunshine. An impressive bit of delegation followed as Keith S remained in place, and his cap, sleeping bag and other items arrived at his side along with cups of coffee.

 Elsewhere on the beach swimmers were to be seen, this time Ian and Mike followed Nikki into the water – apparently further away from the ice the water is colder?!?

The forecast confirmed what we knew, the wind was too strong to go anywhere, certainly some of the gusts felt like they’d carry you away, but they also guaranteed dry kit. A sunny stormbound day felt like a rare treat – well let’s face it sunshine was a rare treat this trip. Much lazing and some socialising with the local occupant of the campsite followed, hard to believe only a short paddle to Whittier remained of the trip.

Throughout the trip entertainment highlights have been provided by the wildlife and Mr Grumpy. In fact, at some points the antics of sea otters and the rants of Mr Grumpy were the only things that kept the spirts up. Number 57 on the list of life’s most annoying things is porridge apparently. Breakfast became elevenses and then lunch and the campsite wildlife, a ground squirrel, came out to discover if we had any food. 

As the sun moved we swapped beaches – decision point happily had 2 beaches facing opposite directions. Keith decided it was time to record the events of the trip. Much muttering and moaning followed, but recordings were made - can’t remember what I said, and you can bet its completely different to this write up!

Conversation invariably turned to how much food was left-over, and some food swapping occurred to gift Keith S with a packet of cheesy broccoli.

As evening approached another couple of paddlers arrived. Mark and Roger went to welcome them and after a last evening meal and rubbish fire folks drifted to the tents to prepare for 7am on the water for the final push to Whittier. Looking at the clear sky Keith S decided to sleep out in his bivvy bag – just in case the night sky decided to put on a show ………

Frankie Annan     More Photos………. Audio Report……..

29th August (Wednesday) – Decision Point to Whittier

We were up early this morning as the wind overnight was dying off, allowing us to paddle back up Passage Canal to our finish at Whittier.  Stoves were purring on the beach next to our kayaks which had been moved down ready for packing.  Tents and kit were deftly ferried down to the low tide mark and everyone ate breakfast, packed their boats and got ready for paddling at the nominated time of 7:00am.  Sweet!

We left our friends at Decision Point (3 local paddlers who had arrived the night before) and paddled off around the corner in a tight group.  The sun was just rising in the east and gave a red tinge to everything.

We paddled round the light at Decision Point in close formation, eager to get to town and that long promised “fish and chips”.

We crossed Squirrel Bay and on across Shotgun Bay (so called because of violent blasts of winds that blow over the gap and down into the bay from the west).   After a short rest and the earliest of elevenses we struck out against the wind towards Whittier, all around us in the clear air we were surrounded by 13 different glaciers.   This reminded us of what Alaska and Prince William Sound is normally like.

As we approach the dock in Whittier and civilisation and the first houses we spotted a black bear on the shore.  We watched for a little while along with a group of tourists while he foraged for food along the shore line.  We hugged the shore keeping out of the very strong winds that normally blow down over Portage Glacier and into the beach where we started 14 days earlier.

We quickly emptied the kayaks and put all of Levi`s gear into piles ready for collection.  He arrived right on schedule at 11:00am.   Once all loaded we headed for the “Swiftwater Seafood Café” for a well-earned lunch.   Our food and drinks arrived very swiftly, and we made a call to head for the 1pm tunnel.  Well the toffee shop was still closed.  We made it with a few minutes to spare.   Levi dropped us at our Airport Motel.   Later that afternoon most headed for REI (USA outdoor gear store) and to explore Anchorage.    Mark booked us in to Gwennie’s Old Alaska Restaurant, for the evening meal.   Great finish to a very good, if a little damp trip.

Keith S     More Photos………. Audio Report……..

Advice for future trips:

1/ Food available from Fred Mayers from 6:30am / Seyers Mall 24hrs or Sainsbury`s on route.

2/ Getting to Whittier is relatively easy (train, hire car or shuttle bus).  We used Levi Hogan this time.  ($500 for the whole group plus Gas, tolls and tips)

3/ UK style sea kayaks available for hire from Levi Hogan (http://www.turnagainkayak.com/) (including delivery, top of the range paddles, BA, Flares and Pepper Spray etc)

4/ Need bug head nets in worst areas. (Although late August is the best time to go rather than July.)

5/ Large lightweight tarp is very useful to cook under and for shelter from the rain.

6/ All stoves should be of the same fuel in case one has a mechanical problem. Such a long expedition means that you take only enough fuel for yourselves.

7/ Tents should be capable of pitching on rounded pebbles on the beach immediately above the tide line. Do not expect to use pegs in the conventional way but they can be buried sideways with the guy clove-hitched onto the middle. (similar to a dead-man or snow stake).  They should be 3+ season tents and be pretty waterproof.  In very heavy rain a spare tarp can be hung over them to shield them from torrential rain.

8/ Paul Twardock`s book “Kayaking and Camping in Prince William Sound” A Kayaker's Paradise is an excellent reference. National Geographic publish a topographical, waterproof map of the west of the sound (Sheet 761)

9/ Keep bear safe! All food needs to be sealed x 3 (2 zip-locked bags + 1 dry bag) and stored overnight away from the sleeping area (50m). Processed foods are far easier to keep bear safe (soup and pasta etc) and are easier to prepare.  Tooth paste, and wash kits kept with foods – not in tents. Hand flares are probably better than pepper spray as defence against marauding bears. It is impossible to hang all your food for a two-week expedition, so a bear cache is used covered with a tarp and pots etc hung on the outside to try and alert you if it is raided.

10/ Neoprene boots with over trousers are ideal for keeping your feet dry and launching boats on the gravel beaches. (Wellington Boots would do a similar job but may not be as comfortable)

11/ $12 toll on tunnel to Whittier / Lazy Otter for charter boat drop-off or to pay for parking by the small beach under passenger ferry ramp.  Launch fees for the beach is $3 per person.  The tunnel into Whittier is at half-past the hour and out of Whittier on the hour.  (Except when a train is going through it)

In summary though (based on boat gpx tracking and not map):

• Total : 290km
• 16th : 17.5km
• 17th : 42.5km
• 18th : 28km
• 19th : 0km (storm day)
• 20th : 22km
• 21st : 18.5km
• 22nd : 15.5km
• 23rd : 31km (fault with the data as battery died :-( - but near as damn it)
• 24th : 32km
• 25th : 25km
• 26th : 0km (storm day)
• 27th : 41km
• 28th : 0km (storm day)
• 29th : 14.5km