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2024 Outer Hebrides Day 15 Atlantic sun, sand, and swell by Christine Bond

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2024 Outer Hebrides – Fuzzy Water

Day 15 Friday 30th Aug – Atlantic sun, sand, and swell by Christine Bond

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The last paddle of the Outer Hebrides trip…. The wind had been forecast to drop, the sun was forecast to shine and a good trip to the Atlantic West coast was the plan. Unfortunately, the wind had not quite read the weather forecast from the previous day so it was a little windier than we would have liked for Plan A. Plan A had been to circumnavigate Great Bernara. Due to the wind, we kept to the shelter of the islands on the west coast of Bernera instead.

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The raft of ducks whose beach we used to get on the water

We set off for our first white sand beach. Something the west coast is known for. To reach our first elevenses stop we accomplished two open crossings first to Fuaigh Mor, where we headed up the North East coastline before heading for another crossing to Bharsargh, through a channel to the west side of the island, then crossing to our furthest island Pabaigh Mor. This is where it got interesting !!! As we started to reach the north part of the island we were less protected from the Atlantic swells. How big 2/3/4 metres ….. they were probably about 2 metres but felt much bigger with the following sea and the multi-wave tops. There was a small rock, Bogha Dubh, in our path, where the waves were crashing, and which Chris navigated us around. We weren’t in the swell too long, but long enough for some of us before heading left to a narrow channel between Pabaigh Mor and Pabaigh Beag. The gold at the end of the rainbow was a beautiful turquoise cove, Caolas Phabaigh Beag free from any Atlantic swell. Time for a lunch stop on the beautiful beach, shared only with the sheep which still roam the once inhabited land, and taking in the view.

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The beautiful turquoise cove, Caolas Phabaigh Beag free from any Atlantic swell

Over lunch, the discussion started on how to get back. Chris went on a mini-expedition to see if it was easier to paddle from the other entrance to the bay. No, so the options were: Paddle the way we came in (6 nervous paddlers !!): or to portage our boats first paddling into a small loch off the lagoon followed by a small boat carry on grass then down a very rocky beach to re-launch our boats south of the challenging sea conditions and through a beautiful and large natural arch.

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The beautiful and large natural arch Photo – Debbie Hughes

Two paddlers (Keith and Chris) opted for the sea paddle to the portage, while the remaining six all helped each other with our boats. As we came out of the Arch and around the corner we found a blow hole in action. So, a quick stop to investigate before continuing back down the coast.

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Frankie found a blowhole in action!
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