Day 02 Monday 18th Eilean Imersay (Ardbeg) to the north end of Laggan Bay (Ghillie Brae – Laggan Estate) by Debbie

Packed up and on the water promptly at 9.00, no time for faffing, we are now a fully trained and slick team, urged on by the knowledge that in the next 6 Kilometres there are 4 of the best distilleries Islay (Whisky capital of the world!) has to offer. But…such an early start means none of them will be open for “sampling”, we have been outmanoeuvred by our leader yet again.  Whisky, whisky everywhere and not a tot to drink. Those of us with a passion for the water of life had to console ourselves with taking distant photos of the distilleries as we passed them by, Ardbeg just round the corner, Laphroig, Lagavulin and then Port Ellen.  Outrageous!

In fairness, we did land at Port Ellen briefly for first elevenses (Ella came up with some superlative to describe first elevenses of the day, but now I can’t remember it… supreme? superior?) to fill up our water bottles at the marina and use the facilities in the ferry terminal.

Then off we go again past Port Ellen lighthouse, a long day in prospect as we have to round The Oa peninsula.  The Oa has the most spectacular coastline of huge cliffs, with very few landing places for kayakers and not an option for wild weather.  However, the weather was perfect as we rounded Rubha nan Leacan at the southeastern point and turned north westerly, taking in the fantastic coastline towards the Mull of Oa.

The American Monument high up on the Mull commemorates the huge loss of life when two troop ships sank in Islay’s waters in the last year of WW1.  The area around the Mull is now an RSPB nature reserve, home to choughs and golden eagles.  Catriona and I both think we saw an eagle, but we were accused of marking our own homework. Ha.

Heading up the coast after the Mull, it was tricky finding a second elevenses or indeed, a first lunch spot. Eventually, we came upon a small, steep storm beach through a narrow gap in the cliffs.  Entertainment was provided by Ella – anatomical nuances of the various bones/skulls/vertebrae littering the beach.

From Rubha Mor, the northern point we reached on the Oa, we set off across Laggan Bay, with views of idyllic sandy beaches (and the airport) on our right.  This was a lengthy paddle, about 7 Kilometres, but we were anxious to get across and find a camp for the night, dreaming of golden sand and midge-free cooking……

In reality, the golden sandy beaches were left undisturbed in favour of potentially better toilet facilities (rocks) and a huge mound of rotting seaweed (ugh) to drag the boats through.  One day…