Day 06 Friday 22nd Shian Bay to Kinuachdrachd Harbour by Frankie A

The paddlers were still Frankie A, Andy B, Christine B, Dave B, Ella B, Ian B, Catriona H, Debbie H and Keith S

Distance paddled 19 miles

From a 5-star to a 2-star campsite was Keith’s summation of the day to come. Would that come to pass? Day 6 plan centred on paddling through the Gulf of Corryvreckan at slack water/as the tide was favourable. This meant a journey up the west coast of Jura, passing amazing, raised beaches, arches and caves.

These features were formed by changes in relative sea level during the Quaternary Ice Age, as the land rebounded after glacial ice melted, leaving behind these ancient shorelines and terraces high above the current sea level. The largest and most visually striking are the unvegetated quartzite shingle ridges of the west coast – the route we were paddling.

The day started with more wind and sea state than we had so far this trip. There was some surf as we launched, and Keith & Ian ensured everyone got safely away at our usual 9 am start, which was actually by 8.53 am today.

As well as the stunning scenery, the goats and deer provided much delight watching them, watching us. A porpoise sighting was reported. I’m unable to verify this, but I can confirm several eagles, real ones, not the seagull eagles from earlier in the trip.

There were 2 elevenses along the way. A short 10-minute comfort break followed by a longer stop 8km further up the coast, where a bothy is located. The highland cattle didn’t appear overly impressed.

A further 4km up the coast, we had a longer stop to await slack water and safe passage through the Gulf of Corryvreckan. As we made our way to the long lunch/early evening meal, Ian made a sudden course change. Debbie announced she was following Ian as she’d like to see her 71st birthday on Monday. Ahead, we could just make out the white water of the whirlpool. The Corryvreckan whirlpool is the world’s third-largest whirlpool, located between Jura and Scarba. The standing waves are formed by water being squeezed through the narrow strait, encountering underwater rock formations. The whirlpool is most active on spring tides.

Rounding the corner to the beach, there was some tide to navigate and a little bit of excitement.

Here we cooked a meal, anticipating a late arrival at a camping spot. 2.5 hours were spent cooking, carrying boats further up the beach as the tide was rising, eating and staying warm. Sleeping on rocks was also a popular activity. 3 walkers and a dog on the way to the bothy appeared from out of the bracken. After a brief chat, they continued on, and we went on with moving boats further up the beach with the tide. Then 5pm arrived, and we popped through the Gulf of Corryvreckan and began the search for a campsite. Caitriona was later heard to complain that this part of the trip was too tame!

As we scoured the coast for possible camp spots. We came across one of the possible options, which had a semi-permanent campsite in situ. This was quickly discounted, so we carried on to the harbour at Kinuachdrachd. We soon spotted one tent already in situ, probably a rambler or two. It was our only choice left with fading light, so we opted for a spot on or next to the small stone pier. In the end, it proved ideal, and most found a flat piece of land and enjoyed the last of what small breeze remained.