2025 Open Canoe Trip to Central Massif, France – Day 1 by Sue L
Liverpool Canoe Club open boaters were going to France again to paddle in the sun and explore the Central Massif, a large lump of rock that has been uplifted to the West and South of the French Alps. We had a wide choice of rivers, most were multiday trips with excellent riverside campsites with good toilets and showers. Although we decided on the itinerary once we were there, we were looking at the deeper and more spectacular gorges and multiday trips. The most likely options included the Gorge du Tarn, the Ardèche Gorge and the Allier Gorge.
10 boaters, in 4 cars and one trailer, set off for the long drive south. Some decided to do the run in one go (swapping drivers), and others decided to take longer and stop “en route”. We all arrived at the first campsite (Camping Le Pont du Tarn), which was our launch spot, and began setting up camp for the night / ordering the pain au chocolate for the morning – French campsites are so much more civilised, even if they don’t always have toilet seats or toilet paper. This was a good campsite, it had both!
Once everyone had arrived, we shopped for food for the next 4 days and then ordered food from the restaurant next door. This was a chance to relax and unwind from the long journey. After the meal, the drivers we began the shuttle. We had learnt our lesson from 2023 and opted for the route along the river valley. The plan was to deposit three cars and the trailer three days downriver at “Camping Huttopia” at the Pas de Soucy river constriction, which is not paddleable. In our best schoolboy French, we asked if we could leave our cars and trailer here whilst we paddled the river and that we would then stay the night once we arrived in 2 or 3 days. Luckily, they agreed!
2025 05 25 Day 1 Massif Central Le Pont du Tarn to Castelbouc (22km) grade 2(3), by Sue & Colin
If I start with ‘wow’, that’s an understatement for the scenery which unfolded before us as we put in from our campsite at Flower Campsite Le Pont du Tarn. From our perfect camping spot close to the river Tarn, we were soon on and quickly into the limestone Gorge. The Gorge towered and surrounded us; the sun shone, and the water was super clear, making rocks easy to spot and hopefully avoid. I ‘wowed’ and marvelled at the Gorge and needed constant reminders from the stern to keep focus and watch for rocks! Um… there’s a reason why the rest of the team were solo paddlers!
It wasn’t long before we negotiated the first of many rapids. We’d been reliably informed that the water level was low. However, this resulted in more exposed rocks! Colin and I quickly learnt that communication was the key! Do I tell him the rock is to the left, or do I tell him, “we need to steer to the right?” A debate we had for several days… well, in fact, for the rest of the week. We blamed the fact that we were 2 in one boat and so heavier when we scraped the river bottom.
The first couple of rapids were the start of our steep learning curve, but we came through and were feeling pleased with ourselves. The Tarn has some pretty sharp carves or bends, so there were lots of opportunities to get into the faster flows and follow the line around and avoid and duck branches. The next few rapids, however, were more challenging; faster flowing and bigger rocks all decided to play their own game of pinball. My hands had been shaking from the moment we put in and continued for the rest of the day. What a way to start this adventure.
