Day 3 Guirdil Bothy to Kinloch (The weather forecasts have changed, all of them) north westerly 16mph gusting 25 by Andy
The day began on a high as we gathered inside Guirdil bothy and passively inhaled the smoke from the ‘herbal cigarettes’ being smoked by an in situ bothy resident, enjoying a peaceful rural retreat. Uncertainty hung in the air. Changing forecasts meant that last night’s decision to continue our clockwise journey around Rum had to be reviewed, and a glance at the turbulent grey sea outside reinforced this. Eventually, Ian decided that now was as good a time as any to press on, even though it meant paddling loaded boats in a very lively sea.
Kayaks had to be transferred to an alternative departure spot at the east end of the beach, involving more lifting across a shifting pebbly surface. In its favour, though, this was a much superior spot for packing and the ensuing launch into bouncy water. Heading NE towards Kilmory, we had a lively following sea, but plenty of shoreline interest with dramatic deep cut gulleys, steep cliffs and intermittent deep, caverenous caves. Shortly, we passed a huge wreck which emitted an eerie, ghostly groaning sound, caused by debris being flung around violently inside by the wind and waves. In calmer conditions, we would have paused for a closer inspection and photos, but this wasn’t a place to linger.
Kilmory Bay and its extensive sandy beaches soon came into view. We investigated landing options, discounting those with too much breaking surf and opted for a safer landing at the west end of the beach for a short rest stop. Looking back at this last section, conditions had probably been top-end moderate with an added commitment factor, as get-outs were few and far between and landings potentially problematic in the heavy sea.
After the break, we rounded the headlands at Rhuba Shamhnan Insir, the nothermost point of Rum then, heading SE, Rhuba na Moine and Rhuba Camas Pliasgaig. Each of these gave challenging paddling, but gradually conditions eased as we moved SE, now sheltered from the prevailing weather. It was time for a second break, but most of the available landings were onto pebbly beaches with large, unwelcoming, seaweed-strewn pebbles. One of these did have a small section of sand, enough to nose our kayaks onto for a short respite, snacks and drinks.
What followed was a fairly relaxing paddle SE up to the headland of Rhuba na Roinne. We could now enjoy the wildlife: herons abounded, seabirds darted hither and thither, but the highlight was watching a scavenging sea eagle take flight only a short distance away. After the headland, we entered Loch Scresort and set our sights on Kinloch, partially obscured by the mist.
Ian had described Kinloch as a ‘conurbation’, but this turned out to be highly misleading. Kinloch does not offer the expectant visitor bars, cafes, restaurants and bright lights, but instead more modest comforts: a seafront campsite, heavy drizzle and rapacious midges. All of this for just £17 per person per night, but bear in mind midges are not available everywhere in Scotland, just selected locations. On the other hand, it would be remiss not to mention the very welcome warm showers, village shop offering treats and (importantly) off sales, and a useful hut which gave shelter for cooking and dining.
It had been a fantastic day. Ian had led us quietly but safely through some very challenging conditions in a remote wild environment; we could relax and look forward to more of the same the next day, perhaps with a bit less bounce!