Kinloch (Rum) to Na Gurrabail, Galmisdale (Eigg) – 28 km / 18.5 miles
Paddlers: Catriona, Ian, Ella, Adya, Alan, Emma, and Andy

The Isle of Rum is the correct name. While “Rhum” was historically used, it was a deliberate alteration by a former owner, Sir George Bullough, to avoid the association with the alcoholic beverage. The island’s name is derived from the Gaelic word “Rùm”, and it was officially restored to “Rum” in 1991. 

Day four began with the kind of Scottish summer morning that makes a compass your best friend—thick fog rolling in over Rum, hiding everything beyond a few paddle strokes. Our crossing to Eigg was a steady, compass-led affair, the world reduced to the hiss of water on hulls and the occasional glimpse of each other through the mist.

By the time Cleadale came into view for lunch, the swell had picked up, making for a bouncy, salt-sprayed approach. After a well-earned break on the beach, we enjoyed an “exciting” (read: bracing) launch into lively water before heading south along Eigg’s rugged west coast.

Our day ended in style at a wild campsite at Na Gurrabail, Galmisdale—spacious, scenic, complete with a composting toilet, and already hosting a friendly group of fellow kayakers. There was still plenty of room for our tents, and the welcome from locals matched the setting. The evening was rounded off perfectly with pints at the pub, featuring beer from the island’s own brewery.

Galmisdale proved a warm and generous host to passing paddlers… a sharp contrast to our reception at Arisaig the following day.