2025 05 30 Day 6 Chaperoux – Alleyras (18km) grade 2(3) by Ruth and Mike
A Special Day on a Special River
Last time we visited the area, this section of river had been the best run of the trip. Indeed, the guidebook refers to this run as the “The Jewel in the Crown” for open boating in the Massif Central. With 18 km from put in to get out, the river promised nearly 40 rapids from G2 to G3 – we were excited!
Reaching the put-in, the sun was blazing hot and the river slightly lower than last time, but we were still eager to get on. Helmets on, let’s go!
Rounding the first bend, the first G3 zooms into view. The team were up for it, paddling well, and we all aced it! We were really impressed with Sue and Collin’s paddling; this was far harder and more continuous than anything they had paddled before. Equally, for Anthony, it wasn’t the longer / bigger boat that was making it look easy, it was your skilful paddling.
The rapids passed under our boats, the cliffs became higher, eagles soared overhead, all whilst the accompanying railway line took more and more tunnels and viaducts – we were really into the Gorges de l’Allier. Standing waves, technical rapids – we flew through them all. And then it was time for 11’s.
Relax. A group of sit-on-tops passed us with their moniteur whilst we relaxed in the sun, enjoying the rather runny Camembert on a fresh baguette.
Back on the river, we soon caught up with the sit-on-tops, who had decided to get out for some rock jumping. Nice! But we knew we were approaching one of the crux rapids of the trip. Mike had done some great rock spins last time, whilst Chris was aware of previous trips that had seen open boats wrapped around the rock that Mike had spun on. The tension built, and we switched more into river running mode.
Martin set up position at the top of the rapid, Nikki ran to give on water safety below the rapid, whilst Keith ran the rapid and immediately got onto the bank with the important throw rope……… sorry, camera!
With the lower water, it was a fun rapid. It was so easy for Sue and Colin that they decided to take a more technical line down the river left.
The tandem sit-on-tops followed soon after. Their moniteur got out to give instructions and provide safety, so we stayed to help. One boat swim, two boat swim, three boat…….
We left them to it and paddled down more lumpy water until we reached “Roman Bridge”. This really is a strange one; there are the beginnings of the arch on river right, but no sign of where it lands on river left, and no obvious reason for the bridge to be there. But it was a lovely location and had a nice spot for lunch.
It was here that we discovered something amazing, it was Chris’ birthday, his 70th to be exact!!! Wow, what a special place to host a special day! (I hope I’m still paddling when I get to 70!)
A quick swim for some, and then it was back on. Alas, all too soon, as Martin reported that his boat was doing an impression of the Titanic, it was leaking under the water line, and he was going down fast. Luckily, Martin comes very well prepared, and he soon had the airbags out and was in his element repairing the rather large split in his canoe (Note, this was not due to pilot error, nor to a gust of wind lifting his boat and sending it down a G5, but rather a previous attempt to add a bang plate had breached the structural integrity of the canoe). Whilst Martin laboured on his boat, the rest of the group gave moral support by going for a swim, playing in the flowing water.
Hitting the water again, we paddled through more superb rapids until the get-out. All agreed, a true Jewel in open boats.
Following the great paddle, we retired for an evening meal at the rafting centre in the campsite. Superb food, great music, lovely company and a free drink for Chris when the waiter discovered that it was his birthday. Top job!
How long until next time?
Ruth and Mike
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