Inner Hebrides Day 4, Kilchiaran Bay Beach to Nave Island by Andy B

We rose around 7 am, struck camp, carried boats to the water’s edge, packed, and were paddling by 9 am. We left Kilchiaran Bay, crossed Machir Bay and paddled steadily northwards in calm conditions, assisted by the tide.

Before long, we had rounded Coul Point and made our first elevenses break in the Saligo Bay area. As we ate our snacks, Keith took the opportunity to show us the tidal planning maps he uses to assess tidal flow rates and direction, referenced to HT and LT at Dover as the benchmark. Some minor amusement was caused as my boat decided to launch itself into the water, but luckily the homing device I’d installed brought it quickly back to shore, to the disappointment of onlookers who’d hoped for a bit more entertainment.

Heading north again, we had varied shoreline interest with a multitude of caves, geos and gulleys, and sighted a white-tailed sea eagle, airborne with its prey. The sea eagle is a notable feature of Islay’s wildlife, previously extinct but now returned to the island. They are seen particularly around Loch Gruinart and the Oa peninsula, where they nest, and are known to hunt barnacle geese. Hen harriers and golden eagles are also resident and make Islay a great place for eagle sightings.

We rounded An Clachan and after a further break, we were paddling NW towards Ardnave Point. We’d elected to camp on Nave Island, shown as a bird sanctuary on our maps, and situated just north of the Point. Approaching the island, we came across large colonies of seals beached on outlying skerries, intent on observing our approach. To the alarm of some of us, many of the seals launched and several came closer, surrounding us in a seemingly threatening manner. In fairness, they may just have been curious or keen to guard their territory, as they made no attempts to board kayaks.

Landing on Nave Island, we carried boats up above the high tide line, unpacked and then began the usual search for level campsites, this time camping on a raised (and level) pebbly beach. Later, we discussed route options for the remainder of the trip, bearing in mind the imminent onset of bad weather in a few days time. In short, either completing the circumnavigation of Islay and Jura, arguably the preferred option, paddling a section of Jura’s west coast or via the Sound of Islay, a stretch of its east coast. This would leave a few days for a further trip, venue to be decided depending on the weather and other factors.

Some braved the sea for a short dip, then at the allotted time the midges appeared, forcing a retreat into tents, and welcome sleep.