Bute Circumnavigation 8th – 11th Nov

Gary, Roger, Eamon, Andy and Christine

The Isle of Bute nestles comfortably in the Firth of Clyde, south of the Cowal peninsula and north of the Sound of Bute, divided into highland and lowland areas by the highland boundary fault which crosses the island along the line of Ettrick Bay/ Kames Bay. Farming and tourism are the main industries, along with some fishing and forestry. Mount Stuart House, a popular attraction, is cited as one of the world’s most impressive neo-Gothic mansions.

The main town is Rothesay on the east side of the island, with a modest population of 4,310. In the Victorian era, Rothesay became an important tourist destination, being hugely popular with Glaswegians due to its proximity to the city, easily accessible by rail to Wemyss Bay and from there a regular steamer to the island. By the 1960’s Rothesay’s heyday as a tourist mecca had largely ended and the island population was in decline. However, reminders of the Victorian era remain. For example, the splendid, some might say majestic, public conveniences on the pier at Rothesay, offering a glimpse of the comforts available to visitors in bygone times. On the mainland, the Wemyss Bay railway terminus, designed in 1903, is noted for its fine architecture, boasting a fine roof structure with glass and steel curves. Either of these alone would be reason enough to visit the island.

For kayakers, there are more reasons though to travel to Bute. North Bute sits on the 150km Argyll Sea Kayak trail which runs from Ganavan just north of Oban to Helensburgh on the north side of the Clyde, with certain facilities provided at overnight campsites, ostensibly to improve comfort levels. For those travelling from NW England, the journey time by road is approximately 4 hrs to Wemyss Bay. From there, a regular Calmac ferry service means the island is a good option for a long weekend paddle destination, either for day trips or a longer camping trip and circumnavigation of the island.

Day 1 to Burnt Isles and Buttock Point (15.92km, 2hrs 50min)

Our intrepid group of paddlers convened briefly at the Wemyss Bay rail terminus. In 2 shifts we embarked on the ferry to Rothesay, to then regroup and prepare boats and kit to depart. Faffing was kept to a minimum as we were all keen to set off, but most felt obliged to pay homage first to the fine Victorian public conveniences on the pier and admire the facilities there.

We had decided to travel anti-clockwise from Rothesay Bay on our circumnavigation, initially aiming for a small campsite at the north end of the island, opposite the Burnt Islands and just before Buttock Point. Launching at around 10:30 am we made good use of the southerly wind and were swept along nicely on the following sea as we headed northwest. Passing Port Bannatyne we made a detour into Kames Bay with its popular marina then, rounding Ardmaleish Point, the scenery and views changed. It felt like we had left civilization behind as we entered the Kyles of Bute, with a misty backdrop of the Cowal peninsula hills and frequent glimpses of herons, seals and otters amongst the varied wildlife. Nearing the north end of the island we crossed the alternative ferry route to the island, which runs from Colintraive on the mainland to Rhubodach, and entered Balnakeilly Bay.