The Mull of Kintyre – Day 2b Southend to Machrihanish

2026 05 25 Nine go around the Mull of Kintyre by Adya M

We patiently waited in the scorching sun at Southend on Sea for the tides to turn so we could complete the committing paddle around Mull of Kintyre while the weather was good. With stronger winds on the horizon, waiting a day didn’t seem a wise option around a headland exposed to swell and overfalls. Expedition life sometimes means doing a double day, so off we went to make the most of it. Little did we know we’d be saying “I’m never doing that again” after finishing at 10 pm.

The first hour or so of the coastline felt like an August day paddling in a mill pond. The only movement spotted was birds, otters and eventually a pod of dolphins swimming to Sanda island, where we had been earlier in the day. Our gentle paddle in the heat changed as we turned a corner. The sea transformed from a mill pond to rolling waves that meant we could just about spot the tops of each other’s heads while kayaking through these (maybe 3m) waves. With our hearts in our mouths, we regrouped in a comparatively sheltered area before the next headland. We gave the breaking swell a large berth, and off we went around the main headland. The sea immediately felt friendlier, and while we still had big rolling swell from the south, it felt like nothing in comparison to the conditions a few moments before.

Or so we thought. The swell and windy conditions continued to demand our attention as we made steady progress around the Mull. We looked for fins in the distance, but only spotted the famous lighthouse on the mull to distract us from the rolling swell and big breaking waves on shore. A few brave folks took photos, but the sea needed all of our focus. Three hours of continuous paddling was a test of our endurance and teamwork. Frankie was feeling seasick, so stopping in the swell for a rest was also not an option. Side swell turned to headwind as we made progress up the west coast of the peninsula. We saw a beautiful sunset and patiently looked for our resting spot. Breaking waves and swell made it difficult for us to find a good landing spot, so it was approximately 10 pm when we found a public beach (in front of homes and street lights) to rest our heads.

When we safely managed our surf landings on the beach, there was a lot of relief on everyone’s faces, combined with a little delirium from the long day of kayaking. There was little chat beyond how hard going that was, and somehow Eamon managed to offer a few of us a glass of wine, but all we needed was rest. I believe Ian said, “If I ever suggest a double paddle day again, just shoot me”. He now tells me that it was meant just for this week, so we should look forward to more double adventure days.

Despite the tremendous challenge, we all agreed that it was the right decision to paddle “The Mull” that day. This region provides a very remote paddle and requires a high level of tidal awareness, planning and kayaking experience. There are no landing spots, and the area is also a commercial shipping area, so there is a lot to think about in terms of safety and group management. Big thanks to Ian and Keith for leading us through some challenging waters.