2024 Outer Hebrides – Fuzzy Water
,Day 03 Sunday 18th Aug – North Bay by Andrew Bond – An Introduction to the Wind
Paddlers: Dave, Chris, Frankie, Catriona, Debbie, Keith, Alistair, Gary, Christine and Andy
Eschewing the comforts of our campsite at Balnabodach on the east coast of Barra, we headed en masse to North Bay to explore some of the coastline and islands on the northeast side of the island. This meant we would, in theory, escape the worst of the strong prevailing westerly winds and have a relatively sheltered trip. The launch spot was a convenient slipway, close to the local church. It was Sunday morning and arriving churchgoers looked on with interest as we prepared to set off.
On launching I decided, unwisely, to go through one or two warm-up exercises. A gust of wind caught my paddle blade and the next minute I was floundering in the water, to the complete bemusement of onlookers. Momentarily. I was unable to compute what had happened, but Christine quickly restored order and had me efficiently back in my kayak. Having established my paddling credentials, we could set off.
We headed east out of North Bay passing some of the accumulated debris and infrastructure of the local fishing industry. The kind of fishing fleet which had flourished here and elsewhere in the Hebrides consisted predominantly of small family-owned boats. Fishery resources were subjected to escalating pressure in the 20th century from east coast vessels and European fishing fleets so that by 1980 the coastal waters had little left but shellfish. Sadly, the decline in West Coast communities is largely due to the depleted fishing resources, which impacts local income and employment. Farming of salmon on an industrial scale does, however, appear to be flourishing.
Turning back to the northwest we explored nearby Bagh Thuileabhagh which allowed us an elevenses break, a memorable landing in thick mud (and for me, the opportunity for dry clothes) before we set off again. The route Chris had proposed took us eastwards around the small islands of Fuidleigh and Flodaigh and gave us the first taste of a following sea, which some found a bit unnerving. We rounded the more exposed headland of Fuidleigh and encountered a stretch of bouncy water, then took a direct line due east before rounding Flodaigh and entering more sheltered waters.
We then threaded our way through a group of small islands back towards Barra mainland into an increasing headwind, sheltering briefly on the sheltered east side of Lamalum, and decided that the ferry slipway at Ardmhor would offer the best lunch spot. We had a pleasant sheltered lunch in the sun, admiring at close quarters one of the inter-island ferries which had arrived at the same time. After lunch we threaded our way through a couple of small islands back into North Bay. All that then remained was a determined paddle into a strong headwind, back to our launch spot and the cars.
Our ‘introductory’ paddle had given us a taster of what the Hebrides has to offer. Stunning scenery with enchanting islands, mountain backdrops and ever-changing vistas. We had also been exposed to the elements on this first trip but enjoyed interesting and sometimes challenging paddling conditions.
Andy Bond